DO NOT use silicone on any exhaust parts. It will kill the O2 sensors and cat.

 

Good point! Use the correct gasket or crushable copper gaskets

 

EXACTLY what I suggest. Anti-seize is not all the same. I have bunches of the aluminum type, but no copper. However, I usually just destroy all exhaust system fasteners anyway.

I am a Chassis guy. What else can I say?

Oh! I know! Fasteners are cheap. And I never adjust the alignment on my exhaust!

 

I removed the entire suspension on the drivers side, and unhooked the steering tie rod, ball joint, and sway bar link on the passenger side.

Then I disconnected the upper trans mount that is hidden under the fuse box.

I disconnected the front and rear trans mounts. To make it easier to pull the trans, I removed the mount brackets completely so they wouldn't snag on various parts:

Front Trans Mount Removed:




Rear Trans Mount Removed:







I decided to drop the entire cradle to make access easier, especially since I have to rework the rear cradle bolt nut after cutting the head off the bolt. I dropped it down and it conveniently fit on the ground around the jack stand holding the engine/trans up:

 

Good work, now how are you doing with that cage nut?

 

I almost forgot to mention, the steering shaft has to be disconnected before dropping the cradle:



The shift cables just snap off, and it's easiest to unbolt the bracket holdin the cables from the trans (1 "outside torx" bolt):



There are also 2 electrical connections to the trans that have to be disconnected (neutral switch and speed sensor if I recall correctly.

The trans is bolted to the engine with 6 bolts. Five are from the engine side into a threaded hole in the trans, and one is on the trans side (on the top of the trans, accessible from the engine compartment) into a threaded hole in the engine. That one is a stud with a nut in the center because it also holds a hose bracket with a second nut.

You have to remove the starter to get to one of the bolts.

 

Outside or external torx? So external torx socket is required. What size , for our future readers.

 

I ended up cutting the head off the bolt so I could remove the cradle. I will need to cut the bolt in another spot to get the nut out.

I bought a new bolt at the dealer, and then went to the hardware store and bought a 14mm x 2.0 flange nut. This will replace the cage nut. The nut has to be a grade 10.9 instead of the common grade 8.8 that is usually available for metric bolts and nuts. The grade 10.9 is a higher-strength nut.

Steve

 

How are you planning on fastening it to the body cavity so it won’t spin when torquing the rear LCA bolt?

 

I don't know yet.

The cage on the old nut had broken loose, which is why the nut was rotating.

I could hold the nut with a socket, it is accessible, even with the cradle in place.

Steve