http://www.marvelmysteryoil.com/

 

I learned all about oils and viscosity when I was flying in Alaska. There is a lot of gray area in it all. Going by what is recommended is always a plus but sometimes it doesn't make sense.

I recall driving up in my Chevelle 454 in 78. Was in Bismark ND overnight. Took 3 hours the next morning in January to start that thing with 10-40 that turned into taffy i guess.

Got to Alaska and I recall buyng the oil they recommended which was straight 5 wt. Never seen that but said okay. Went to pour it in and stopped as it resembled water. Went back to the store and they told me that was the right stuff. Used it during the winter months and then back to the other in the summer.

These engineers try to develope oils that will cover all climates. I mean whats next-1-70? If your in a cooler climate the lower sides of it may be wise such as 10-30 and if you live in florida, 5-anything is stupid.

After looking in the manual, not the little owners one but the big 1inch downloaded one. it appears they are geard towards and oil to cover all climates, not specifically as what is best for the engine. Their chart gives this way. So with that, i may change to 10-30 due to where I live now, 5 wt combo is ridiculous.

I have problems trying to figure out what the mfgs are trying to say. Are they recommending this oil as this is what the engine is designed to run on or best to run with depending on where you live.


Then we have oil as a coolant. Many interpret oil as a lubricant. When the oil gets dirty, it breaks down and becomes useless and your car will run hotter.

If you cannot see the readings through your oil on the dipstick, You may as well be lubing it with "duty"

 

I'd like to ask a question here on all this, along with the viscosity etc.

If we have 2 identical engines. One running lets say 5-30 and the other 10-30, will one of the engines temp run a bit cooler than the other?

 

Cyclic.....

On a PERSONAL BASIS I tend to agree with your assessment for a SLIGHTLY heavy oil in the warmer climates....say a 10w-30.

And yes, the GM engineers probably do recommend oil weight to cover all conditions. You do understand that GM tests many of its vehicles in the hot climates of Arizona and Australia as well as the colder slimates of Michigan and Canada. And they do use the same oil as recommended for each model/vehicle.

But as you stated, "the engineers try to develop......" and that would be the chemists and engineers at the oil companies not GM, although I know GM tests the oils before approval or recommendation.

Don't really understand the reason for your experience regarding 10-40 in ND. Basically, it's a 10 weight oil with 40 weight lube properties. I used straight 30 weight oil in many of my cars in Michigan, year around. Never had any problems. used straight 30 weight in most of the vehicle in Arizona, until about 12 years ago. Then switched to whatever was recommended by GM for the hot climate and synthetics, in some.

 

I recall that driving through their at that time was around 20 below and damn cold. never had anything that cold in NH

 

Ok while we are on the Seafoam and Marvel Mystery oil Kick... has anyone added either to the crankcase while using full synthetic oil (Mobil 1 5W30)??? This is the first car that I have owed that didnt already have over 100k miles on it so from the first oil change its had mobil 1 full synthetic in it. I was thinking about your Seafoam treatment in the oil but am not sure how it will work with the syn...

On the other hand, with older cars. i would bet my life on SeaFoam!!! I had a 94 s10 blazer with 264k and sea foamed the injectors every oil change. I love that stuff!