Buying advice for a 2010/2011 HHR
#11
And as far as the running boards i do not have them and my rear fender is still as good as new. Must depend on where you live and the road conditions.
And if they will let you call the previous owner that may prove extremely valuable. Never heard of that before.
And if they will let you call the previous owner that may prove extremely valuable. Never heard of that before.
#12
#14
Okay, it's been a while, but I'm back to looking. A couple weeks ago I checked out a 2008 LT2 (or is it 2LT? I keep seeing both) with 26k miles that was marked $15500 on "manager's special," but the lowest they came down to was around $14,800 before we came to am impasse. He was trying to sell me on NADA retail value and said KBB and Edmunds are only applicable on the east coast, and that they're based on what consumers think the cars are worth, rather than what the cars are actually worth. (To me, that last part seems like an argument in favor of using KBB and Edmunds!) No way was I going to pay that much for a 2008 when I know I can buy a 2011 for less, with plenty of factory warranty left.
Then things got really busy last week, so I'm finally getting back to car shopping.
It looks like prices have started falling just within the past couple days (new month, I guess?). My next prospect is a 2011 LT2 with about 30k miles. It was a rental car, and Edmunds estimates its trade-in value at a little over $13k and dealer retail around $16,500. A 2010 with the same specs is listed at $1500 less across the board, so since the 2013 models are already selling now, I would expect prices on 2011s to drop over the next few months. (In that time I might even be able to find a 2010 with low miles, which would be even cheaper.)
The dealer recently reduced it a few hundred bucks to $14k. How much do you suppose I could talk them down from that? Did any of you haggle much on your cars when you bought them? I've seen a lot of car-buying advice that says to offer 20% less than asking price, then if they don't take it, raise the offer to 10% less than asking price and hold firm there. Anyone else have another strategy that worked?
Then things got really busy last week, so I'm finally getting back to car shopping.
It looks like prices have started falling just within the past couple days (new month, I guess?). My next prospect is a 2011 LT2 with about 30k miles. It was a rental car, and Edmunds estimates its trade-in value at a little over $13k and dealer retail around $16,500. A 2010 with the same specs is listed at $1500 less across the board, so since the 2013 models are already selling now, I would expect prices on 2011s to drop over the next few months. (In that time I might even be able to find a 2010 with low miles, which would be even cheaper.)
The dealer recently reduced it a few hundred bucks to $14k. How much do you suppose I could talk them down from that? Did any of you haggle much on your cars when you bought them? I've seen a lot of car-buying advice that says to offer 20% less than asking price, then if they don't take it, raise the offer to 10% less than asking price and hold firm there. Anyone else have another strategy that worked?
#17
Good luck with your search..
I'd second your decision to go for a 2LT with a moonroof. Prior to buying mine I drove a rental HHR which was just a 1LT, and the one thing I didn't like was the semi-claustrophobic feeling I got, with the very high beltline and thick A pillars. The moorroof with the shade pushed back helps that out greatly.
One other advantage you get with the 2LT is the sport-tuned suspension and 17" wheels, which really help with the handling.
I'd second your decision to go for a 2LT with a moonroof. Prior to buying mine I drove a rental HHR which was just a 1LT, and the one thing I didn't like was the semi-claustrophobic feeling I got, with the very high beltline and thick A pillars. The moorroof with the shade pushed back helps that out greatly.
One other advantage you get with the 2LT is the sport-tuned suspension and 17" wheels, which really help with the handling.
#18
Thanks Nazgul. This one is lower priced compared to most places. KBB prices it about the same as Edmunds. I guess my question is, is that generally considered an upper bound on what you should pay (suggesting the starting point would be lower) or should it be considered more the "right" price.
Strangely, this particular one doesn't have the moonroof. It would be nice, but I'm not finding any in my price range and my wife's color that have the moonroof, so I guess it isn't a necessity. It does, of course, have the 2.4L engine and several of the minor cosmetic upgrades. I did make some offers on a couple with moonroofs, but those dealers politely turned me down and suggested maybe I'd be interested in looking at some of their other inventory.
Good luck with your search..
I'd second your decision to go for a 2LT with a moonroof. Prior to buying mine I drove a rental HHR which was just a 1LT, and the one thing I didn't like was the semi-claustrophobic feeling I got, with the very high beltline and thick A pillars. The moorroof with the shade pushed back helps that out greatly.
One other advantage you get with the 2LT is the sport-tuned suspension and 17" wheels, which really help with the handling.
I'd second your decision to go for a 2LT with a moonroof. Prior to buying mine I drove a rental HHR which was just a 1LT, and the one thing I didn't like was the semi-claustrophobic feeling I got, with the very high beltline and thick A pillars. The moorroof with the shade pushed back helps that out greatly.
One other advantage you get with the 2LT is the sport-tuned suspension and 17" wheels, which really help with the handling.
#20
Hate to disagree with you on this one, but DO NOT get an aftermarket moon roof. They are basically made 'one size fits all', and could be prone to leaking.