Bonez

Happy Veterans day to all who served and are serving !

2009 2LT 2.4L

Awhile back I replaced the lower control arms as I was having some issues with the front end`having a shake and rattle. The lower control arms helped with some of the shake but not 100%. I recently had all the brakes done and it eliminated the shake when braking ( which I thought was warped rotors ) from experience. Now the brakes are tight and very accurate ! Although that stopped the shake during braking there are 1 pending issue and 1 new issue that I am trying to solve.
Since the brake work Ive now developed a shake once I reach 60mph+ which I think is the tie rods ? I got under and can twist them by hand somewhat easy which I know they should be very firm, would it just be the outers or do I need to do inner and outers and hope it eliminates the shake??
The other issue, which I suspect is still the same issue from before is the Hubs, while braking and turning right I get a loud brief grind noise, only going right when braking, I suspect a dry hub bearing.
So my plan of attack is having both hubs replaced next week and the serpentine belt, not sure of the tie rods yet but will have them looked at in the shop. Just seeking out experience with the front end noises/issues and what the fix was.

Just getting everything buttoned up before the winter weather hits since this is my only vehicle for awhile as I was rear ended in my Ram and it was totaled out.

donbrew

My guess is all of the stated problems are hubs/bearings.
The 60 MPH vibration might be tire balance. Were you tires balanced while mounted on the car? Or on a machine? If on the car, removing and re installing can muck the balance.

Oldblue

I suggest to replace both front hubs first . Make sure you torque all fasteners properly
recheck the torque on the ball joints

a fine how to from yesteryear!
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-...acement-38946/

Bonez

Thanks , Sorry Ive been gone awhile as some meth head apparently cut and stole the copper lines along the highway here so our internet was out since, just got it back tonight with their temp fix until they run new lines.
I didnt get to the shop yet as I wanted to get under and check everything before I started throwing money at it.... Im going to go to my buddys shop once the lift is open to get it up and wiggle stuff and look for movements and all that stuff.
Just been crazy these past couple weeks and the holidays upon us.

Oldblue

Take your time , inspect as you can , no rush.

Bonez

Ok, I was able to get under it and dig into the rattle issue. No movements showing a worn wheel bearing but does have a slight squeek which I assume is the bearing going dry? But the rattle that was driving me crazy was what I was attacking..... So I twisted the tierods and the drivers side was easier than the passenger side, both made a slight tick but I think that was upon reaching the point of stop... so I wasnt sure but kept digging. I had my son to get in and rock the steering just enough to produce the clunks, I got feeling around and it is more noticeable on the driver side near the rack so my guess is it is the inner tierod for sure since the noise/feels is nearer to the rack on the driver side. Question: should I do all on both sides or just the drivers side? I am thinking to do both sides , if not I assume the passenger side will endure more stress and eventually go shortly after.
I am trying to get some extra cash together to just do the wheel bearings as well so the front end is completely done.... except struts.

jimvw

Take a close look at the sway bar links. Mine keep working lose and then they make noise on bumps. Tightening them down fixes it until they loosen up again.

Bonez

they are not the issue, its in the steering and I found the clunking in the tierod shaft, you can hear and feel it rocking the steering. When driving it rattles like crazy but if you turn the wheel slightly it goes away as long as there is stress on it... if you let it float ( no stress in either directions ) it sounds like the car will shake itself to death ( and can feel it in the steering wheel ) I was getting tired of throwing money at it and wasnt getting fixed correctly at the shop, so now I know what needs to get done. Just funny that before replacing all the brakes pads, rotors, shoes.. it only did it when braking, now it does it when driving and brakes are super smooth?

Oldblue

The rod socket is wearing more as time goes by, it won’t get better.

donbrew

Have you adjusted the rear brakes? That was a cause for me. Most shops never even look at the rears.
I completely replaced the rear brakes at 200,000 miles, even though the still had 70% left. That made a tremendous difference in the rattles and shakes.
If your shocks and struts have more than 100,000 miles they are worn out.