General HHR Discuss anything related to the Chevy HHR that doesnt seem to fit into the more specific categories below.

Had a BIG problem this morning....

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Old Feb 21, 2008 | 12:42 PM
  #11  
LeEarl's Avatar
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Joined: 10-09-2007
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From: MN
Originally Posted by collyn
HHRs(as well as almost all current production GM) starters are activated like this.
key in and turn to acc: +12 volts applied to acc curcuits
key to ignition: +12 volts is applied to acc and ign.
key to start: +12 volts is sent to starter as -12volts is sent to ign and acc.

the process of starting BEGINS when the key is moved from acc to ign to start and it ENDS when the vehicle starts...not when you turn back the key like older cars.

The car simply was carrying out the last comand you gave it when it was able to do so. Since you also tried to remote start, the passkey+ system was also bypassed for one startup cycle.

The airbag light was brought about since second ign and second acc were not inergized appropriately and in the correct sequence.

In short... get the car serviced.
I know how the whole thing works from the starting process. The problems started when I got in the HHR and put the key in the ignition. The DIC read SERVICE AIRBAG right away and the starter did nothing.... In the manual it states that the airbags do NOT need service unless they have been deployed.

As for a vehicle that starts with NO key in the ignition and the remote start not pushed I am not happy with that. What if I would have opened the hood to check anything? Could have been a bad deal!!
Old Feb 21, 2008 | 01:58 PM
  #12  
Mikey's Avatar
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Joined: 01-13-2008
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From: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
There are 8 conditions that won't allow the remote start to work, one being if the hood is open, so you needed worry about that.
With it that friggin' cold, my guess is that you were lucky it started at all, and when it did, idling does nothing to recharge the battery, my guess is that the battery voltage was barely adequate and funny things start happenning with low voltage in that car. I had a dud battery and thought the DIC was royally screwed up but everything normalized with proper voltage.
Old Feb 21, 2008 | 02:04 PM
  #13  
Mikey's Avatar
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Joined: 01-13-2008
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From: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
No starter grind?

Originally Posted by GCarp
That is correct. I've started mine with the remote and out of force of habit when I put the key in, turned it and had that Oh Sh$% moment. Nothing happened No starter grind.
And here I've been very, very careful with that hahaha and haven't done it yet.

I once watched a woman grind her starter over and over about 4 or 5 times, could not believe what I was seeing. The motor was so quiet she didn't hear it I guess, clash after clash after clash.... Lady! IT"S RUNNING !!!
Old Feb 21, 2008 | 04:31 PM
  #14  
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Joined: 01-17-2008
Posts: 84
From: Dallas
Originally Posted by Old Ray
Kind of knew that something was a little different in the way the HHR starts. Good explanation, thanks.

Couple of dumb questions come to mind.

So in theory you could hold the key in the start position forever once it started without damaging anything?

If ign is not getting voltage (-12) in the start position how does it have ign current to run with, some kind of starter / ign bypass?


Thanks.
The ECM supplies the constant +12v to run the ignition, fuel, etc... the Key cylinder "IGN", "ACC", and "Start" are simple low current commands sent to the ECM. Unlike older cars where it is common to have almost 60amps of +12 in the column bundle, GM, as well Chrysler and a few others, have realized that the ECM board and components are lighter and way less exspensive to build/supply than the vast web of 16+ga wires running everywhere. Just like the locks on our cars platform...ONE single wire sends commands to lock and unlock. The difference is lock is full (-) and unlock is (-) through a 1.5kohm resistor. That difference is for a reason to...since a dead battery (around 9-10v) is not going to let you lock the doors...when you hit lock, it will only unlock. kinda cool forward thinking...at least until you try to integrate into the cars wiring...LOL
Old Feb 29, 2008 | 08:47 AM
  #15  
LeEarl's Avatar
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Joined: 10-09-2007
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From: MN
Originally Posted by Mikey
There are 8 conditions that won't allow the remote start to work, one being if the hood is open, so you needed worry about that.
With it that friggin' cold, my guess is that you were lucky it started at all, and when it did, idling does nothing to recharge the battery, my guess is that the battery voltage was barely adequate and funny things start happenning with low voltage in that car. I had a dud battery and thought the DIC was royally screwed up but everything normalized with proper voltage.
Just to set the record strait, the HHR STARTS ALL THE TIME in temps from -20˚ to -40˚ this year. No problems The Battery had a FULL charge and everything else worked, lights were on, radio worked fine and the dash was 100%. Like I said, the only thing that did not work was the key ignition. I had the key in the ignition and the HHR would not engage the starter. Then with the key out of the ignition it all of a sudden started....

Since that day everything has been fine, even on a colder day. The HHR starts great and I love that.. No being stuck at home with a dead vehicle
Old Mar 1, 2008 | 12:15 AM
  #16  
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Joined: 10-15-2007
Posts: 199
From: Yukon
Consider this for what it's worth. (My car is so old it has not one cup holder.)

In cold weather these delays occur. No problem in warm weather or when the car interior is good and warm.

1. Turn on turn signals. One or two minute delay before they decide to blink.

2. Turn on winshield wipers. One to two minutes until they decide to wipe.

3. Turn off wipers. Stay put for up to a minute or two then decide to return to park position.

4. Tachometer reads a factor times the true speed. Continues to malfunction even after the car is warm. Resets by restarting the car.

I think, 1, 2 and 3 are caused by dirty switch contacts where the dirt is stiff when cold. (So perhaps the remote did its job of switching the starter relay, but like my electrical when cold, the actual contact was made some time later.)
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