The thread that won't die! lol

Anyway, was looking at adding a sleeping mod to my HHR (proud new owner of a 2010 LS Panel, btw), since I plan to do some traveling, and am very strongly considering this:


The thing that makes the tatami interesting (to me, anyway), is that it can be rolled up when not in use. Importantly, even though it is long, the extra length can double as a pillow.

 

About to try this: https://theskeeterbeater.com/

 

I built a small camper and I get 16mpg towing at 62 mph. The only issue is, the HHR brakes are a little weak for a 1200 lb trailer, so no mountains for me. The inside height is 62". Anyway, my next project is to make a stealth camper out of my HHR. I saw on the Priuschat forum how an individual used two 6ft sections of Rubbermaid closet rack- side by side, to make 24" wide a bed platform- I also thought about hinged plywood, so I can flip it back-
I am buying a Harbor freight ATV cargo rack, item #69858 , for my hitch, so I can move my camping gear into a cargo box. I also need a roof rack- it will have to be aftermarket.
Mark

 

My setup works fine with the skeeter beater screens and a fan inside. Sleep on a twin air mattress with the passenger seat pushed forward and a cooler behind the seat for support The trailer is a 40" x 48" aluminum hauling 1000#

 

You seem to be overloading your HHR; it is a 1/2 ton truck, with a towing capacity of 1,000 lb. If you have a class 2 hitch maybe more, but a class 1 bolted the sheet metal sounds scary.

 

Where would a class 2 bolt? I have a class I Curt receiver, and with the 1000 lb limit and 100 lb tongue weight, my best solution was either a motorcycle camper... mostly tent based, or a hatchback tent, using the receiver for its original purpose of holding my bike rack. I'd have to remove it to deploy the tent, though, but that only takes a few seconds.

I bought a Suburban to take care of all this, but I'm NOT in love with the fuel economy. However, I can get 16mpg with my family and luggage aboard, and towing a very lightweight trailer (while still hideously overweight for the HHR) can do so without taking much of a hit on fuel economy. If that little trailer drags the HHR down to 16mpg, then the Burb's sweet spot isn't bad at all.

Sometimes I get really indecisive...

 

If you can get a class 2, I guess it would require structural modification to the car.

A class 1 is basically bolted to the sheet metal with 4 bolts. I have seen the sheet metal tear when a tow truck driver put his chain in a slot in the "frame". Those guys think cars still have steel frames.

 

See my setup above. Northern Tools 40" x 48" Aluminum Trailer Kit that is rated for 1060# payload, which is right at the limit for your HHR towing. I have high speed hubs that are "rated" at 55 MPH. I tow at 60 MPH, right at the weight limit and check bearing temps regularly. Never had an issue. I don't lose a lot, if any, on MPG as there is no wind drag and would normally be doing 75 MPH

 

My point was the 4 bolts that hold the hitch to the car through 10 gauge sheet metal. If one of them should self loosen a disaster is pending.

The tongue weight is like 100Lb. From here yours looks kind of wallowing. When that happens the front end raises up and the front wheels camber inward, making for odd traction, handling and tire wear.

I'm just a cautious guy.

 

Assume you are posting to Ben. I am a retired Maintenance guy in the oil industry and check all my bolts on trailer/hitch for tightness before and after every use. My load is also balanced and 20# under the recommended load rating, which I know has an engineered safety factor.

I would definitely monitor my transmission temps and wheel bearing temperatures and consider lowering speeds according to those numbers. Sound like Ben is looking at alternatives.