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Spark plugs will not loosen

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Old 12-09-2017, 09:15 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Oldblue
I found somewhere that the AC Delco plugs are copper core to the iridium tip , the threads are zinc coated to prevent galling and corrosion
Yes, ALL manufactures will say this is the best for what ever their plating. I mean,why not? Have to sell you their product.
Me, just use some anti-seize, and you can sleep at night.
As far as the center conductor, it's fine to have copper/iridium. Iridium last's a lot longer as an electrode than older materials.
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Old 12-09-2017, 09:18 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by donbrew
Are you trying to say that space aliens are not the answer?

And eBay is not in a conspiracy with PayPal to steal everything I hold dear?
You lost me with this. How does Ebay and PayPal have to do with spark plugs that don't want to loosen?
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Old 12-09-2017, 10:43 AM
  #23  
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I modified the post.

We have a couple of tin foil hat types floating around.

It was an attempt at levity; I have finished my coffee have you?
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Old 12-09-2017, 05:35 PM
  #24  
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The copper is in the iridium plugs then the wee tiny whisker. I also am pro anti seize.

Beware the signs


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Old 12-10-2017, 12:55 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Cat Man HHR
From what I've read newer plugs are trivalent plated. This in itself will not need anything on it, but some engine oil, organic (Dino oil) or synthetic can be applied to the threads if you wanted to.
One of the reasons anti-seize shouldn't be used is over torquing the plug and the possibility it is applied to the electrodes which will lead to a plug miss fire.
Me, myself and I use anti-seize. I now have something that works to prevent any type of corrosion between steel and aluminium.
Also how many people really use a torque wrench to tighten their plugs? Let's get real, just don't gorilla it when you tighten them down.
i used anti seize since I had the car brand new . You only put a dab at the top of threads not at the bottom . Never had a problem maybe old school I guess ..
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Old 12-10-2017, 08:14 AM
  #26  
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Hmmm, I think we’ve lost the OP!!
Any luck getting those plugs to loosen up??
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Old 12-10-2017, 11:26 AM
  #27  
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The problem is "old school" had a crush washer that needed a bit of King Cong and nobody uses a torque wrench.

Old school is fine as long as you acknowledge progress.
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Old 12-10-2017, 11:50 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by donbrew
The problem is "old school" had a crush washer that needed a bit of King Cong and nobody uses a torque wrench.
You have better chance loosening a plug with a flat washer vs one with a tapered seat like in the HHR engine.
Old school engines (Ford and Chevy) use a tapered seat plug, and yeah they can be a problem to take out with someone who laid into them when they were installed, but they came out.
Neither flat or tapered needed to be installed very tight. Tighten up and give it a "tweak" and your good to go.
Old school torque wrench, 1/4" drive is fingers, 3/8" is wrist, 1/2" is arm, 3/4" is shoulder and 1" is leg.
As far as taper goes. What happens when someone really tightens a tapered lug nut?
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Old 12-11-2017, 08:37 AM
  #29  
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I was talking about the crush washers that used to be common, where you needed to give it an extra push after hand tight.
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Old 12-11-2017, 05:42 PM
  #30  
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I like flat seats, copper plugs, anti-seize, and I used to race my daily driver - this millennium!


I also like butterflies and zebras, and Jimi Hendrix.



Now I had those conical seats and used anti-seize and copper plugs - and I won...

Keep the anti-seize minimal - it can alter O2 sensor readings if you get it in the combustion chamber. It might even trash the sensor. IDK, but that is your beware/think first.

If you can trick the ECU, you can run what you like, in non-inspection states.
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