Traction control light; hard shift

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Feb 19, 2018 | 02:32 PM

#31

shojay92

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Senior Member

Joined: 08-06-2017

Posts: 134

From: Elmira, New York

Quote:

Originally Posted by Oldblue

You mean the two solenoids, grey one is intake , black one is exhaust

Yea that's right. They cost $21.00 dollars off eBay. They are Chinese knockoffs but they work. We will see how long

Feb 20, 2018 | 09:36 PM

#32

shojay92

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Senior Member

Joined: 08-06-2017

Posts: 134

From: Elmira, New York

Quote:

Originally Posted by donbrew

It is the p0301 that is setting the traction control and hard shifting.

After you do what Oldblue suggested you need to do a compression and leakdown test.

Hey I have great news! I think it's fixed. I changed the mass airflow sensor, #1 fuel injector, and the two cam intake actuator Soleniods on top of the valve cover. I did all this last Friday and here it is now Tueasday and so far no check engine light nor traction control light. And my car runs better and has more pep. So my fingers are crossed. Parts total was about $100 dollars. My fingers are crossed but man I can feel the difference.

Feb 21, 2018 | 12:00 AM

#33

shojay92

Thread Starter

Senior Member

Joined: 08-06-2017

Posts: 134

From: Elmira, New York

Quote:

Originally Posted by RJ_RS_SS_350

You were chasing this misfire 3 months ago(stuck spark plug), Is the shifting issue and traction control light a new thing?

Yes it's a new thing but luckily I fixed the problem. I replaced the mass air sensor, #1 fuel injector, and the two cam intake actuator Soleniods on top of the engine. The check engine light has not come back on since I cleared the code. Fingers crossed.

Feb 26, 2018 | 07:18 PM

#34

R CA HHR

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Joined: 05-14-2007

Posts: 907

From: Chico Cali

I have replaced those actuators several times over the years and finally got tired of it.
What I have noticed is mine does well until about 50% oil life or so then I get the light and the hard shifting.

What I've done for the last couple years is pull the actuators and submerge the entire screen area in seafoam while I change my oil and it seems to do good for awhile...

I was told at one point that dirty oil causes the actuators to throw the code. My oil does seem to get very dark very quick so I have pulled the actuators out in between oil changes and clean them but it doesn't seem to last as long as when I do it during the oil change.

I have a blue smoke after idling issue and a bit of blow back through the occasional (or lack of) tube off the intake. That may be part of why my oil gets dirty so fast. I'm not sure I'm still working on that.

Feb 26, 2018 | 07:27 PM

#35

shojay92

Thread Starter

Senior Member

Joined: 08-06-2017

Posts: 134

From: Elmira, New York

Quote:

Originally Posted by R CA HHR

Yeah I've done so much research on those actuators. Did you know they play a key role in the engines variable valve timing? So if one of those actuators malfunctions, that makes the cars computer throw a fit and causes the tranny to hard shift. It's so odd that GM would design something to stupid. The actuators I bought off eBay only cost $21.00 dollars. I will remember soaking them in seafoam. Hey just to let you know, try going 3,000 miles between oil changes and use full synthetic oil. I get mine at walmart. I don't know the condition of your HHR but I tread both my HHR's(one is an SS) like fine china lol. I baby them only because they are so tempromental. So far no check engine light at the time of this entry and it passed a NYS inspection today!

Feb 27, 2018 | 04:25 AM

#36

shojay92

Thread Starter

Senior Member

Joined: 08-06-2017

Posts: 134

From: Elmira, New York

Quote:

Originally Posted by R CA HHR

I have replaced those actuators several times over the years and finally got tired of it.
What I have noticed is mine does well until about 50% oil life or so then I get the light and the hard shifting.

What I've done for the last couple years is pull the actuators and submerge the entire screen area in seafoam while I change my oil and then shake and blow them out, it seems to do good for awhile...

I was told at one point that dirty oil causes the actuators to throw the code. My oil does seem to get very dark very quick so I have pulled the actuators out in between oil changes and cleaned them but it doesn't seem to last as long as when I do it during the oil change.

I have a blue smoke after idling issue and a bit of blow back through the pcv (or lack of) tube off the intake. That may be part of why my oil gets dirty so fast. I'm not sure I'm still working on that.

Hmm...i don't have blue smoke yet, do you have the 2.2L?

Feb 27, 2018 | 08:29 AM

#37

Oldblue

Administrator

Joined: 10-13-2011

Posts: 39,972

From: Welland,Ont Canada

A 2006 2LT would have the 2.4, the 2.2 that year did not have VVT.
That blue smoke is most likely the intake valve guide seals are worn out or the piston rings .

Feb 27, 2018 | 01:56 PM

#38

shojay92

Thread Starter

Senior Member

Joined: 08-06-2017

Posts: 134

From: Elmira, New York

Quote:

Originally Posted by Oldblue

A 2006 2LT would have the 2.4, the 2.2 that year did not have VVT.
That blue smoke is most likely the intake valve guide seals are worn out or the piston rings .

Maybe find a donor HHR and and take the head off that one and put it on your car.