Yes, that's why the draw bar that came with my hitch didn't work so well made the trailer nose down all the time. Turning the ball the other way up makes it low in the back and I have enough problems with clearance so level is much better than low on either end.

I suppose having it nose down helped keep stuff in the trailer but I didn't like hitting the ground coming in or out of parking lots.

I prefer to have the trailer set level when I tow it. When I borrow that other trailer I use the 4” rise draw bar and since that trailer has bigger wheels and tires it sets almost level a little nose down but that's OK.

The 4” rise tow bar fits in the spare tire spot just fine, doesn't rattle when I'm going down the road and is always there when I want it.

Somewhere along the line I have acquired another draw bar with a 6” offset but so far I have never used it. It is configured for 6” drop, I did put it on the hitch but the way its set it nearly drags the ground with out any load on it so it mostly sits on a shelf in the garage.

I've often thought about turning the ball the other way up and using it when I borrow that bigger trailer but so far the 4” works just fine.

With it being a class one draw bar no one that I know ever wants to use it.

I used to have a boat trailer that you had to button hook your turns or risk curbing out with the trailer. I really needed to cut a few feet off the tongue but having the trailer that long really helped me with backing it up.

I used to drive a semi so backing a trailer is pretty easy for me. Sometimes I really wish I had a fifth wheel setup when backing a trailer because that is more natural for me but I get by.

 

Thats true and a very good point, however you need to be able to hook the trailer up and have it loaded the way you will be using it to find the exact proper finished height required. If you vary your loads that measurement could change/vary slightly.
Hitch rated tounge capacity at ball is 200lbs. max. I doubt you will be even close to that weight because the ratio would put you over the total HHR capacity, but the point is your tounge weight when loaded effects the final height requirements.
It's kinda a guessing game the first time.
Also they do not offer ball mounts for the HHR in 1" height or drop increments so you might end up a little off anyway.

SF

 

Great points on the ball height. I bought a nice little 4x8 trailer at Fleet Farm the other day for $545 and thought it looked a little odd with the front tilted a couple inches up. I might have to pick up a drawbar with a little less rise.

Although it seems obvious now that you mention it, I hadn't considered the tongue weight affecting the height of the ball.

I have a couple more questions/comments:

1. How did you manage to properly torque the forward driver-side bolt when installing the hitch? I got close, but just couldn't quite get that bolt to the required 110 ft. lbs. It seems like the only way to get enough space and leverage to properly torque it would be to remove the rear bumper cover and/or completely remove the muffler.

2. I highly recommend getting a bolt-on wheeled trailer jack for the front of your trailer. I about broke my back pulling the 460 lbs. trailer into my garage by myself the first night. I had bought a trailer jack the same day that I bought the trailer. After I installed it the next day, I was kicking myself for not installing it as soon as I got home.

 

Read my post about pulling a 5 X 8 trailer 1800 miles. The HHR just doesn't have the power, it's a real pain to try to keep it in top gear. And when it's not in top gear it runs hotter and mileage drops 30% no matter what.

 

When I was looking for a hitch for my SS I had no idea where to look and didn't trust the yoohoos down at Uhaul so I was looking online and trying to do my research and see if it was something I was going to be able to do. Haha. Along my journey I went through countless forums and websites but found hitchanything.com to give me the concrete answers and specs I was looking for.

 

Silverfox. I wanted you to know I followed all of your advise and "Stella", has a brand new curt hitch, and I bought the wiring harness you suggested too. I had to get the 1& 7/8 ball because that is the size that fits the utility trailer my Dad built. I got my neighbor, who has a lift to put the hitch on. He couldn't believe how easy it was. I am going camping next week, and I am looking forward to not having to stuff the car and a roof top carrier full, I can put it all in the trailer.

 

I have an 09 panel,2.2 auto.It's lowered...have been on 2 long distance trips,over large mountain passes.Only used I drive a couple of times.Tear drop trailer and gear 900lbs. Never missed a beat...times underpowered...towing is not a problem.Sometimes I found letting the cruise pull me up the passes was the easiest.

 

When I bought my '08 panel (used) it had two wiring harnesses, one on each side. What is the 2nd one used for?

Boydie

 

You will have to figure it out yourself, or speak to the previous owner or whoever installed it.