Used car Warranty
Senior Member
Joined: 08-26-2008
Posts: 1,488
From: Sequim Washington
PASS.......
The way I see it is usually the Warranty begins with the Original IN SERVICE date which means you are in reality paying $1200 for about a year and expires THIS YEAR!! I would put the $1200 aside and and use it far past the 4 years if needed. A certified HHR would have been a better warranty.
The only reason I bought a warranty on my Taco is because it was 7/75 (I put 4K a year on it.) from the 2008 in service date. Good until 2015 for $510 Ordered from a dealer in Massachusetts who sells real Toyota Care warranties over the phone. If it would have been over $800 I would have covered myself.
I am two years into the warranty and have not used it nor do I expect to but its a good value added warranty for a transfer.
OH and make sure your buy offer includes EVERYTHING BUT TAX AND TITLE Otherwise they will hit you with "doc fees" which is nothing but additional gross profit
The way I see it is usually the Warranty begins with the Original IN SERVICE date which means you are in reality paying $1200 for about a year and expires THIS YEAR!! I would put the $1200 aside and and use it far past the 4 years if needed. A certified HHR would have been a better warranty.
The only reason I bought a warranty on my Taco is because it was 7/75 (I put 4K a year on it.) from the 2008 in service date. Good until 2015 for $510 Ordered from a dealer in Massachusetts who sells real Toyota Care warranties over the phone. If it would have been over $800 I would have covered myself.
I am two years into the warranty and have not used it nor do I expect to but its a good value added warranty for a transfer.
OH and make sure your buy offer includes EVERYTHING BUT TAX AND TITLE Otherwise they will hit you with "doc fees" which is nothing but additional gross profit
Good Post .... Even with what I previously posted I agree with you.
There are cases where the Extended Warranty might make sense but it is more complicated then most buyers understand.
The Warranty does start with the build date and just creates an illusion as to how much time and mileage you are actually getting for the cost.
It should also be taken into consideration how long you plan to keep the car both in time and mileage before deciding on a certain policy.
The other Big thing is to carefully analize the exact coverage you are buying.
Some policies list what they cover and leave what the don't a Big Mystery.
For example Zurich lists what is Not Covered and is much easier to figure out.
Also be clear on the policies of selling your car early and/or transfering or canceling your contract. Are there costs involved and who pays?
I recently got some quotes from a online discount GMPP seller and then went to my GM Dealer and asked if the could meet or beat the quote.
They paused when they saw the figures, asked me to wait about 15 minutes and came back with a much lower figure with the Zurich top end plan.
I then went to the second GM dealer in the area and they beat the one I had just gotten.
This was for a 2010 with 23,000 miles but running out of time on the Bumper to Bumper Factory Warranty.
It was a 7 YEAR 100,000 mile Zurich contract as I plan to keep this vehicle that long.
*** It also covers wheel bearings and other items that GM dropped from the 5 year 100,000 mile Powertrain Warranty on the 2010 an 2011 HHR's.
Bottom line is shop around and make sure you get all your questions answered before signing on the bottom line.
Don't rush things if you don't have to.
SF
Last edited by Silverfox; Mar 3, 2013 at 11:34 AM.
Member
Joined: 02-09-2013
Posts: 69
From: usa
Good Post .... Even with what I previously posted I agree with you.
There are cases where the Extended Warranty might make sense but it is more complicated then most buyers understand.
The Warranty does start with the build date and just creates an illusion as to how much time and mileage you are actually getting for the cost.
It should also be taken into consideration how long you plan to keep the car both in time and mileage before deciding on a certain policy.
The other Big thing is to carefully analize the exact coverage you are buying.
Some policies list what they cover and leave what the don't a Big Mystery.
For example Zurich lists what is Not Covered and is much easier to figure out.
Also be clear on the policies of selling you car early and/or transfering or canceling your contract. Are there costs involved and who pays?
I recently got some quotes from a online discount GMPP seller and then went to my GM Dealer and asked if the could meet or beat the quote.
They paused when thy saw the figures, asked me to wait about 15 minutes and came back with a much lower figure with the Zurich top end plan.
I then went to the second GM dealer in the area and they beat the one I had just gotten.
This was for a 2010 with 23,000 miles but running out of time on the Bumper to Bumper Factory Warranty.
It was a 7 YEAR 100,000 mile Zurich contract as I plan to keep this vehicle that long.
*** It also covers wheel bearings and other items that GM dropped from the 5 year 100,000 mile Powertrain Warranty on the 2010 an 2011 HHR's.
Bottom line is shop around and make sure you get all your questions answered before signing on the bottom line.
Don't rush things if you don't have to.
SF
There are cases where the Extended Warranty might make sense but it is more complicated then most buyers understand.
The Warranty does start with the build date and just creates an illusion as to how much time and mileage you are actually getting for the cost.
It should also be taken into consideration how long you plan to keep the car both in time and mileage before deciding on a certain policy.
The other Big thing is to carefully analize the exact coverage you are buying.
Some policies list what they cover and leave what the don't a Big Mystery.
For example Zurich lists what is Not Covered and is much easier to figure out.
Also be clear on the policies of selling you car early and/or transfering or canceling your contract. Are there costs involved and who pays?
I recently got some quotes from a online discount GMPP seller and then went to my GM Dealer and asked if the could meet or beat the quote.
They paused when thy saw the figures, asked me to wait about 15 minutes and came back with a much lower figure with the Zurich top end plan.
I then went to the second GM dealer in the area and they beat the one I had just gotten.
This was for a 2010 with 23,000 miles but running out of time on the Bumper to Bumper Factory Warranty.
It was a 7 YEAR 100,000 mile Zurich contract as I plan to keep this vehicle that long.
*** It also covers wheel bearings and other items that GM dropped from the 5 year 100,000 mile Powertrain Warranty on the 2010 an 2011 HHR's.
Bottom line is shop around and make sure you get all your questions answered before signing on the bottom line.
Don't rush things if you don't have to.
SF
I usually don't buy them (or certified cars as you pay about the cost of a warranty more for the vehicle which KBB even indicates in their "if it is certified" price. I would rather put that $1500 aside and insure myself. GM's 12/12 is BS anyway. WE PAY for that! I tell them to omit it and drop the price to a non certified price. I'll by a Service contract instead and cancel it of their are no hidden issues which show up quickly.
I have NEVER ever in 30 plus years needed more than $3000 work on vehicles, But have been offered over $10,000 in Service contracts on the same. Never buy them on appliances, TVs or computers, That also would have been a waste in the long term. I will buy $500 7/7500 bumper to bumper warranties all day long though from Internet sellers who sell them in volume.
Here is a Service Contract strategy I have used in the past when I am unsure of a car or it has common non recall little issues like the HHR. I BUY the longest term "platinum" cover everything contract with the highest deductible and put in on a credit card SEPARATE from the deal so I can dispute if I run into issues, I then run the car for a few months to a year then cancel if there are no initial covered up major issues. With 6 years an 70k miles left a big check comes back.
In the interim, I do NOT use it for minor issues during the covered period as I fully intend to cancel it. Sometimes if you use it ONE time for even a $400 issue you cannot get out. It's a small price to pay for insurance against initial catastrophe on a vehicle I don't know anything about or has a poor repair history , and in the end does not cost as much as a "certified" vehicle (the latest scam IMO). ALL low mileage late model vehicles should be in certified inspected condition from reputable dealers. If you have six months to a year one year or at least 5000 of Manufacture Warranty all the better. You can decide to by one or not before that expired on the net from a high volume seller.
BTW CarFax/Autocheck reports can be had for $5 here. http://www.autovin.de/Home Although mist dealers offer them now.
The new "lifetime" and 100K "warranties" sound great but has anyone actually had an expensive drive line part replaced under one? VERY few people get their money's worth.
Why did HHR decide to OMIT many parts in 2010? I am guessing failure rates of those parts were too high. There's your sign.
OK now IF you must buy a Service Contract Take every possible "out" off the table. Get your vehicle serviced head to toe at Chevy. Every oil change, Every factory service and DOCUMENTED. Do not put any parts on that could give them wiggle room. That is what I do with my Tacoma. (however I do oil changes between the warning light myself) Dealers do ALL my service including tires (as they supposedly INSPECT everything covered ) Their bad if they "miss" something.
The wife's 06 RAV purchased with 18K in 2008 has 78K and has never had anything but regular service. Not a single check engine light. That vehicle is cheaper to fix than replace now. That Service contract would have been a waste and we still have the "fixit" slush fund
Just my $1500 and $.02
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: 04-30-2010
Posts: 130
From: Washington DC
well I stroked a check for 10,400 yesterday. which bring the total cost out the door to 11,400
which is a few buck less than that my insurance company offered for my 09 2lt...
the warranty they offered was with Fidelity. I did some checking... and I would not give away a fidelity warranty. based on what I read they don't ever pay out... so I passed on the warranty...
which is a few buck less than that my insurance company offered for my 09 2lt...
the warranty they offered was with Fidelity. I did some checking... and I would not give away a fidelity warranty. based on what I read they don't ever pay out... so I passed on the warranty...
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