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Today I put on a new set of Power Stops, original rotors were warped and needed to be replaced. Since my 2010 did not have Brembo's, figured Power stops would be a decent upgrade instead.
It makes sense, however once the DIC goes flat line, the P0128 code comes on, the temperature just before the flatline is 150 F degrees, so I believe it to be the thermostat stuck open .
Today the little trouble rust bubbles just above the rear hatch beauty bar are being cleaned up sanded smooth, rust converter treated, primed and painted. 4 little 1/8” bubbles each are approximately the size of a nickle under the paint.
Driver’s side, just above the fastener , must have tightened it a tad to much. This one’s on the driver’s side at the curve on the end, must be grit got in between the bar and hatch This is the passenger side also above the fastener.
It makes sense, however once the DIC goes flat line, the P0128 code comes on, the temperature just before the flatline is 150 F degrees, so I believe it to be the thermostat stuck open.
What does that mean, flatline? And what do you mean by “just before the flat line”? Are you saying the DIC shows the coolant level level temp increasing to 150F and then indicating “—“ ? Does the temp climb seem abnormally slow? Why would the ECM cease to send a temp to the DIC just because the temp is rising too slowly?
Haven’t you showed us how to clean a squirrelly temperature sensor in the past?
Yes, I have and replaced the CTS , I had t remove the old one to replace my water pump , so I installed a new sensor.
By flat line I mean the DIC shows _ _ _ _ instead of the coolant temperature. Yes the coolant temperature rose very slow from 77F till it flatlined was about 25 minutes. My coolant usually warms up to 180 F in less time then that.
Today, we drove out for a 45 minute drive, HHR was cold, the temperature went up to 180F in about 18 minutes, no flatline , no CEL , I’m still replacing the thermostat.
The rust encapsulator is supposed to cure overnight , so I’ll primer and colour coat tomorrow.