Oldblue

From our great friend Whopper a how to

https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-...13-14-a-28779/


that valve , see post#3. In here

https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/prob...roblems-59825/

donbrew

The CEL will go out after a bit. They will clear with a lobotomy. On an SS the EVAP purge valve may be slightly different location.

RBodeman

A huge thanks to both of you. I will try these repairs hopefully this weekend.

Do you think it's good practice to disconnect the negative from the battery before doing any of these repair since there is wiring involved and I don't wanna f-up anything if something touches the wrong thing will manipulating stuff.

Oldblue

Yes , always disconnect the negative cable , when changing sensors , switches and other electrical things to avoid a possible short and reset the computers.

RBodeman

Where is the EVAP purge valve on the SS?
I'm running code P0496 and want to change this part but for the life of me, I cant find it.

donbrew

RBodeman

Seriously?? Its right there under my nose?

donbrew

And oddly enough, looks exactly like the new one in your hand!

RJ_RS_SS_350

Threads merged...

RBodeman

UPDATE. Check engine light is out. I did the suggested repairs of changing the EVAP purge solenoid, I did both the intake and exhaust VVT Solenoids and the gas cap.
She started up beautiful and is smooth a silk again with no lights. Thanks tons to you guys. Parts cost me just under $200 and took me about 4 hours. The vast majority of the time was spent on that Air Filter Box. All thee rubber grommets broke when I got it off as well. They are called insulators as per GM Parts. But I made my own rings with duct tape for the front two as a short term fix until I order them