after looking again foolmoon it looks like you did what I was thinking might work a couple days back did you move lower radiator towards front of car by using flat metal stock without having to do anything to the upper mounts
I guess in theory from other cars fabrications I have done racecars etc is that I normally like to have the radiator mounted straight up and down or leaned forward not backward but if this is the way you went it obviously works since your cars temp seems to be lower than mine

any issues with radiator hoses preventing you from moving forward so much
also did you use 1/8th inch thick steel

 

In case someone else is looking to do the 180 mod
It will work but you pretty much have to pull the lower cold charge pipe out to grind off the raised part where the tmap mounts

 

I'm giving serious consideration to relocating the lower map somewhere else. I need to find a lower boost tube.

 

in my opinion spinning the sensor 180 degrees and moving the radiator out on the bottom is the way to go.Wish I had done the mod from the beginning

 

I guess I'm lost but isn't the GMTU a direct factory upgrade? Doesn't the dealer just install it without doing all the moving around or are you guys just talking about non factory parts added too? I know there's some tab that needs cut from the lower sensor but I thought that was it. Thanks

 

Well here is the deal.

The kit was made during the Chapter 11 at GM so they had to use what they could keep development cost down.

The Maps they use are really intended for an Alfa Romeo. They have a 90 degree bend to them that creates a clearance issue in some SS.

The issue is the inner cooler Is bolted to the bumper and is not a part that was intended to have exact placement as there was not need to have it down to the 1/4 inch in spec.

Now with the upgrade map that changes and the 1/4 can make a world of difference. The engine can torque up and put the Map in contact with the AC compressor.

Now you can flip it around but the clearance is tight and may not work in all cases. This was one recommendation of the GMPD engineer I spoke too.

The real fix to do it right is to remove the bumper and use fender washers to move the IC forward to make it clear more easily.

Not many people have had issues with this. Mine I think did it because the IC was replaced when I was run off the road by a cell phone texting driver. They replaced my IC and mounts and it moved it back. Mine was fine with the stock Map but the new one made it hit under a load and pop off the blow off valve before I would hit 12 PSI.

Now as these cars are getting older and the mounts are moving more I suspect more see this issue.

There have been some creative ideas but you have to use care as many of these parts were made to move with the engine and you find another weak spot later if you lock the wrong part down.

So far 5 years with the GM fix of moving the IC and no issues.

Yes GM took the easy way out but if they had not done so there would be no kit. They are working on new kits for the new 2.0 Turbo engines now and I expect they will have dedicated Maps and even a plug in harness. Things are much different now with the money.

 

The reason I flipped my sensor 180 was only because I am using aftermarket lower charge pipe and sensor wouldn't fit in the original position. I then decided to create even more clearance with longer lower rad mounts. With the ZZP intercooler I was only able to move bottom of radiator forward about "3/4 but turned out perfect.

Bigjack...please show us some good pictures of how much clearance you have now with the stock charge pipe.

 

Ok I will get some pics next time I am under there
as you know my wires where damaged mounted the regular way and even after pulling the front bumper off and moving the intercooler 7/16" forward and cutting the intercooler pipe to move the pipe and sensor away from the engine I found that you can only go so far and the pipe hits the fan shroud.
I am guessing as others have mentioned especially with a stock motor mount wheelspin and even the mildest amount of wheel hop.its just a matter of time before that sensor or more likely wiring takes a beating.
Wish I could get a GOPRo camera down there to see
I have a ton of room from the engine to charge pipe now,I actually moved the charge pipe back towards the engine to give me room for the wiring of the tmap to the radiator even though there is not a ton of movement there.
everything was going great 7 days of no problems after replacing both tmap sensors
and then yesterday Friday (always seems to be friday) it kicked up a p101 code which I am told is more than likely my boost leak that hopefully will be fixed this week by the dealer once the pipe comes in.

 

Many fellas have made mounts to hold it away from the compressor, especially with the automatic, there is less room.Even with it held back there is very little clearance.

My Dealer made this simple bracket, and it has been fine for over 2 years, still pulling 25-26 lbs, running the blue spring from Forge. Till you get the wiring problem eliminated it's hard to see if there is anything else going on.

 

Thats how mine looked and to my surprise the wirings indulation underneath the tape was cracked.which I since replaced.