Mine when I stomp on it really hard sometimes like passing a car on a two lane road, looses all boost and won't get it back until I turn the engine off and back on. What would cause that other than hitting the sensor?

 

Ok that's a different story. That sucks. I just meant to address the bouncing.

Are you throwing a code? Boost or vacuum leak?

 

Not usually.
I just had the engine replaced under warranty. Fixed most of my problemw, but not that one.

 

Any ideas? Should I move the rad forward? How do I turn the map around?

 

Which tranny? There is more room to work with on the 5sp models.
In any case, moving the radiator forward with an extention or custom brackets and flipping the sensor 180 degrees is the most fool proof way to cure this issue no doubt. You can shim the intercooler forward which pulls the lower charge pipe forward slightly but you can only move the charge pipe forward so much before it hits the radiator.
When you move the radiator forward, you need to keep in mind that you are taking up real estate for aftermarket intercoolers. I have the HUGE ZZP intercooler which only allowed me to move the rad forward "3/4 but it worked very well as you can see in the pics I posted on the first page. I will try to find a pic of the brackets I made.

 

Here is a pic of one of the custom brackets i made.


The OE bracket has a hole in the side to secure those plastic cover things on the underside. Obviously, my bracket doesn't have that so I simple secured that plastic cover by simply running a tap screw through it into the frame rail, easy.

In order to flip the sensor 180 degrees you have to cut/grind off this anti-rotation bar on the lower charge pipe.

 

It still blows my mind that our factory charge pipes are plastic. That plastic welded bracket is what totally blew out on mine.

 

Auto. Not a concern about aftermarket intercoolers. Never going to do that..

 

Going to move the rad forward, but want to know once I do, how do I remove the lover charge pipe to modify the map.

 

The best way is to remove the bumper which I assume you already would to move the radiator. There's a lower clamp on the pipe to the IC and one on the other end.

Btw, just checked my lower sensor while on the lift for the oil change and mine is still clean of contact marks and plenty of room. This was just from moving the IC forward as previously stated and recommended by GM. But as they say there is more than one way to skin a cat.