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Honing Cylinder Liners

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Old 02-22-2019, 09:22 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by DrLoch
After ball honing clean the bores with trans fluid as suggested. I prefer to use coffee filters rather than paper towel. Coffee filters are lint free, just a suggestion.
Never of heard of that but will keep that one in the back of my mine.
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Old 02-22-2019, 09:31 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by m_ridzon
Additionally, I observed the "finish" on them to try and determine if they might be cast iron, chrome, or moly. They appeared shiny as if they may be chrome. However, I suspect any type of metal ring would be somewhat shiny after thousands of miles of wear. So I'm not very confident my conclusion is accurate.
Here's something to read:
https://www.hastingspistonrings.com/...ecommendations
Next:
Piston Ring Materials Explained
And something from Clevite:
https://www.mahle-aftermarket.com/me...dfs/tb7002.pdf
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Old 02-25-2019, 12:13 PM
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I know some of you folks have built plenty of engines in the past. I intend to wash the cylinder block as previously suggested. Having done this in the past with other engine blocks, I find myself scrambling to dry and oil the block before the blazing-fast-rust sets in. What have you all done? Any special tips, other than scramble fast to dry with compressed air and then oil the steel?
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Old 02-25-2019, 12:52 PM
  #34  
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Drying out the cylinders with say cheap Harbor Freight Terry Cloth and then wipe down the cylinders with trans fluid should prevent the flash rust. Any other metal areas spray down with WD40.
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Old 02-25-2019, 01:54 PM
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??? I thought you were working on an aluminum block LNF. The cylinder liners are the only thing that would rust. Just use towels, then compressed air to dry those off.
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Old 02-25-2019, 01:57 PM
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If I’m storing the block , while waiting for parts , I wipe the cylinder walls with engine oil.
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Old 02-25-2019, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by firemangeorge
??? I thought you were working on an aluminum block LNF. The cylinder liners are the only thing that would rust. Just use towels, then compressed air to dry those off.
Yes, I'm working on the aluminum LNF block. The liners are one area of concern. Wiping the inside of the liners is easy. However, there is a small slit at the deck surface between two adjacent liners where water can ingress and get on the liners' outer diameter. For this, I suppose I'll just do my best w/compressed air and WD40 to attempt removing as much water as possible. And there are a few steel pieces pressed into the block (e.g., a steel tube pressed into the oil filter housing for connection to the oil cooler; the cylinder head roll pin guides; the bedplate roll pin guides).
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Old 02-25-2019, 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Oldblue
If I’m storing the block , while waiting for parts , I wipe the cylinder walls with engine oil.
Great idea. In fact, "assembly lube" might be better choice since it is stickier. However, my question pertains to the flash rust that occurs instantly on the steel after dousing w/water during wash-down. I want to minimize this as much as possible.
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Old 02-25-2019, 03:21 PM
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Rust on the pin guides is not a big concern. If they get a little rusty, hit them with some sand paper right before assembly. Also clean out the matching pin guide holes. (Dremel tool)
The liners and pick up tube. After cleaning, coat with a lube of your choice.

Yeah. Back in the day I built a few iron block, iron head V8's. The parts would come back from the machine shop cleaned but I would reclean the block and heads good, then wear out the compressor trying to blow them dry.
Gotta have a clean surface when spraying Chevy Orange or Oldsmobile Gold engine paint. Ahh,,,, the old days.
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Old 02-25-2019, 04:16 PM
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Assembly lube is an option , but engine oil has always worked for me.
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