I don't think I would install the CleanSideSeparator. It will allow air to enter the valve cover, disrupting the flow path that GM designed. Air would come into the valve cover and exit on the other end of the valve cover. That would now be the path of least resistance, and air would possibly NOT travel to the bottom of the crankcase.

By Jove, I think I've got it!! The CSS would be effective on a V-Type engine!! The air would enter at one valve cover, travel through the lower crankcase, and exit through the other valve cover(into a catch can, of course!). Similar to a breather, but with metered air.

OK, back to business! Hmmm, no whine while warming up (off idle), whine when warmed(idle), no whine at part throttle(off idle). So it whines when at maximum vacuum. Maybe the same spot that is leaking boost is also leaking vacuum. Or the check valve between the can and the turbo is bad(or backward). I've seen reports on other forums of a bad check valve with these kits, resulting in a noise. I don't think it was a whine, but some noise. They got a new check valve and problem solved.

That sound you're hearing (like a BOV) could be the open element air cleaner. Now that it's not enclosed in an airbox, you can hear the effects of the BPV operating.

Just for clarity, the boost control solenoid is mounted on the turbo, the bypass solenoid is mounted on the intake manifold(stock, not sure where it is on your TTR). Are you referring to something mounted on or with the vacuum tank?

The front end looks really nice! I like the black bowtie on the black car! Are those aftermarket headlights too? What other mods have you done?

 

Another thought. The whine only happens when the throttle body is closed. Kinda tells me the whine is probably from the intake manifold or catch can system. Did I mention I'm very suspicious of the check valves? Like any other man-made thing, they can be bad right out of the box. That's why I sourced locally, the first 2 check (PCV) valves I bought were bad, easy returns. (Come to think of it I haven't returned them yet)

 

I think you're right RJ! All the install diagrams from RX included engines that have two valve covers, or the F150 ecoboost.

Ah! When facing the car, the whine sounded like it was coming from the mid/lower left front of the engine - Could be the lower CP, the bypass solenoid, or any vacuum line attached to the bypass solenoid, or vacuum tank.

Yes - I was referring to the bypass solenoid. Since I'm using the TTR manifold, I couldn't mount the solenoid to the TTR, so it's underneath it to the left side of the manifold (when looking at the engine).


Thanks! That's a carbon fiber vinyl I cut to fit the bowtie - it's cool, but the corners bubble up all the time (Can't see from far away). When it gets really bad, I'll probably buy new bowties and spray them with black plasti-dip, then attach them to the car.

The headlights are black depo headlights.

Other mods I've done:
Pioneer AVIC 8100 NEX Navigation/TouchScreen Head unit
Pioneer TS-A1605C Speakers in the front
Pioneer TS-A1685R Speakers in the Rear

And of course everything with the engine build:
LDK Motor built by ZZP
ZZP Intercooler kit
ZZP HHR High Flow Intake
ZZP High Voltage Coil Pack
TTR Intake Manifold
RX Speedworks Catch Can
Brembo Front brake package
Rear Calipers painted red
Drilled/Slotted Rotors all around
TTR Trans mount bushings
TTR Upper Engine Mount
Energy Suspension Sway Bar Bushings
Altered Ego Automotive Design Clear Coil Cover with white LED lights and Fuse box cover


After we fix all of this (and I finally find a house to buy, along with a ring for the soon to be fiancee) There's a laundry list of future upgrades:
3 bar TMAP sensors
Forge Atmospheric Diverter Valve
Relocate MAF to lower charge pipe
Tune (!!!)
Downpipe and Exhaust
Get a Black Valve Cover from Modern Performance
BIGGER TURBO (and the waste gate/BOV to go with it)

I'm keeping this car until I'm 6 feet in the ground, so it will be a long road, and a work in progress!

 

Ordered a new bypass valve (gm 12653854) and a check valve to put on port 2 of the valve cover before it hits the tee for the dirty in of the catch can.

Game plan for Saturday:
1) Install the new bypass valve and make sure all lines are secure and in the right position (Lower Charge Pipe out of the top, BPV in side, Vacuum Tank to the bottom of the bypass valve)
2) Run the bypass valve direct to the manifold and see if there's boost - if there is, then the vacuum tank is bad. If there's no boost, then there's a leak somewhere.
3) Depending on what happens with step 2 determines if we remove the vacuum tank or connect the bypass valve to it.
4) Check all connections/fittings for turbo and intercooler - I also saw the post for the turbo exhaust downpipe so we'll check that too while were looking everything over.


If none of it works - back to the drawing board!

 

The part number you say you ordered is for the bypass valve itself, but your description of how you're going to verify connections sounds like you meant to order the bypass solenoid. Part # and a couple sources here https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/ss-s...e4/#post797763

 

When I put the part number in google (GM 12653854) It shows it's the bypass solenoid. Check out #525 on the diagram - ENGINE ASM-2.0L L4 PART

Some sites say bypass valve, some say solenoid, but they all point to the same bypass solenoid. Maybe there's multiple part numbers? I know the link you provided says it's for a 2.0 LNF 2008-2009 - I don't think that would make a difference, but the GM 12653854 shows it's for an LNF 2008-2010.

 

I see it now, that's a different number from what I found. Good to know we've got options!

 

Very true! I called my parts guy to confirm and he said GM 12633411 is for 2008-2009 and doesn't show as "in stock" with GM. GM 12653854 is for 2008-2010, and is showing "in stock".

Now we know if you can't find one, get the other!

 

"Engine doesn't whine until it's fully warmed up (after 20 minutes or so) and as soon as I give just a little gas, it goes away. That is if I have the regular oil cap in".

Funny thing is my 66 vette does the same thing and I cant figure it out. It is a vacuum leak that you would think I could find where it is coming from since the car is so simple!
Start it up cold runs good and after about 20 minutes I get a vacuum leak whistle from the carb area. Soon as you crack the throttle it goes away! It drives me crazy.

I degress....

Thanks for all the info in this thread. I'm getting back to my LDK engine swap this weekend. Work let up for weekends off and the kids are out of school for the summer!

 

Hopefully Saturday my brother and I get to the bottom of it, and finally get this thing running 100%.

Not a problem - glad you can get some info out of it! Good luck with your LDK swap