I don't see that you have posted what your fuel pressures are. Don and/or George probably know what it's supposed to be.

 

I don't have any way to check fuel pressure.

 

There are no auto parts stores within driving distance to "borrow" a gauge from? Or, Harbor Freight for about $20.

 

The way it is I'm not driving anywhere. I don't think it's a fuel issue. I'm going to dig into it tomorrow. Between the heat and frustration today nothing good could happen tonight. Fresh start in the morning.

 

My Haynes manual says that fuel pressure can exceed 2,000 psi. So make sure the tester is appropriate.

 

Remember that the fuel pressure on the SS is a 2 stage scenario. Pressure from the tank fuel pump to the high pressure pump is in the 60-80 psi.
Now. Between the high pressure pump and fuel rail is where those extreme pressures are needed for the direct injection.
I see about 2200 psi at cold startup. Settles down to about 400-600 psi at idle after warm up.

 

Alright. Soldered upper and lower map sensors. Started the car and it barely stayed running. I disconnected the battery for a few minutes. Reconnected and it runs great. Idles good and builds boost. Did I fix anything? Why was it so bad until I pulled the battery? Thanks everyone.

Do I need to worry about the problem returning?

 

That's what we refer to around here as a 'battery lobotomy'. It's a reboot of the computers. It also clears any stored codes. If the cause is still present, then the problems will return. Since you already cleared the codes once before, and the problem returned, I would say it will probably return this time also.

1.) I would be inspecting the bypass valve diaphragm first, since that's a freebie.

2.) See if any mechanic you know will do a quick fuel pressure check for cheap(or free). Remember the higher pressure on the SS.

If there is still a problem,
3.) Have a boost leak check done.

It could also potentially be the bypass solenoid. It's mounted on the intake manifold, 3 vacuum/pressure lines and an electrical connector. Or any of those vacuum lines could be leaking. Or the vacuum tank could be leaking.

 

Hopefully soldering the wires was the problem all along. I have a new bypass valve coming Monday. Figured can't hurt. Any codes I had were all saved. The only time I every got a light was right after I bought the car. It has never returned. That was 2 months ago. About 4000 miles ago.

 

Any codes you had will be cleared when you disconnect the battery, it'll take multiple drive cycles for the computer to evaluate the systems and decide if everything is back to normal or throw a code.
For now, drive it like you stole it and keep it clean!