P0016 Code issues
#42
Took the oil pan off today and the results were very unremarkable. I did find the broken guide pieces in the bottom of the pan and a few very small metal shavings but not near what I thought I might find. The oil filter looked normal with no apparent metal shavings. I took the pickup tube out and cleaned it but it didn't really need it. I will put the pan back on this afternoon.
Do you think it would be worth the time to take the cam cover off to see if there is anything wrong there? Remember there is a piece of the oil pump that is basically missing - unless it was ground to bits.
When reinstalling the oil pan, do you recommend putting sealant on the pan or the block? I suspect the block since the pan will need to be wiggled into place and it seems like there would be a risk of fouling the silicone.
Do you think it would be worth the time to take the cam cover off to see if there is anything wrong there? Remember there is a piece of the oil pump that is basically missing - unless it was ground to bits.
When reinstalling the oil pan, do you recommend putting sealant on the pan or the block? I suspect the block since the pan will need to be wiggled into place and it seems like there would be a risk of fouling the silicone.
#45
So I found the problem. When I replaced the timing chain, the only gear that I replaced (several came with the kit) was the crank sprocket. As it turns out, it was about .035 thinner than the original. May not sound like much, but it allowed the crank pulley to be pulled farther into the lower timing cover than it should have. I think this put undue pressure on the oil pump that ultimately resulted in failure. I put the old gear and back in and re-timed the engine.
I put in fresh oil and drove the car for about 5 miles. Runs great. Since there was minute metal shavings in the oil pan originally, I decided to flush it again after only five miles to help clear them from the engine. There were some in this oil also. I will probably run this oil for a couple hundred miles and change it one last time.
I put in fresh oil and drove the car for about 5 miles. Runs great. Since there was minute metal shavings in the oil pan originally, I decided to flush it again after only five miles to help clear them from the engine. There were some in this oil also. I will probably run this oil for a couple hundred miles and change it one last time.
#49
The kit I used was from Cloyes. I bought it from Summit and their system said it was correct for an SS. As it turns out, it was for a non variable valve timing engine. I spoke with customer support at Summit and he said everything would work fine except for the cam gears. In the end the only gear that I used was the crank sprocket. Since Cloyes manufactures these sets for GM to build these motors, I thought there would be no problem. They do make a correct set for these motors that include everything that my kit included, but no gears. They assume you will use the old ones. If I had to do it again, I would simply replace the chains, guides, and tensioners.
It was part # 9-4201S. I believe 9-4201SX is the version without the gears. I also bought 9-4202S which was the balance shaft chain kit. It also included gears but they may have one that doesn't. I just have a complete set of gears that I will not be using.
It was part # 9-4201S. I believe 9-4201SX is the version without the gears. I also bought 9-4202S which was the balance shaft chain kit. It also included gears but they may have one that doesn't. I just have a complete set of gears that I will not be using.
#50
My kit is the same one 9-4201S , so I guess I won't need to measure the gear.
Was there a shim beneath the crank gear? 35 thousand of an inch is a big difference!
According to this it's the same sprocket for the 2.0 2.4 Ecotec
SPROCKET. Engine Crankshaft/Timing made by GM. #24424758
Was there a shim beneath the crank gear? 35 thousand of an inch is a big difference!
According to this it's the same sprocket for the 2.0 2.4 Ecotec
SPROCKET. Engine Crankshaft/Timing made by GM. #24424758