My appologies for bringing the topic back up; I know better than to engage in religious discussions in fora like this!

BTW, glad I had my belt on and my suspenders. Last night while walking in the dark, when it was raining and all the street lights were out, my suspenders broke. Had I not had my belt on too, my pants might have fallen down around my ankles!

 

I disagree. If checking the fuses on a car that has been reported to have a loose fuse problem, fixes that problem, then what is wrong with this? I'm not one to dis the dealer, but they are not all geniuses, nor are they all honest. If reseating fuses fixes the problem, then why belabor the point? If the problem persists, then you ought to take it in.

Just MO.

Ken.

 

had a few issues when i first got the car. seemed to alleviate any issues.

 

Is this loose fuses, or lightly oxidized fuses? Since the advent of blade type fuses in cars, I've had more problems with oxidization than fuses coming loose. The old glass fuses had the same problem, eventually, but it seemed to take longer to happen. All in all though, people tend to ignore little things like the fusebox, I can't see the harm in having a look. While you're in there, I recommend making sure the fuses are the correct rating, too.... often if there's a problem, folks like to put in a higher rated fuse as a fix... and I'm sure I don't need to tell all y'all what a bad idea THAT is.

Great info on this site!

 

Reference images of fuse box/little red post thingy:

Started getting sporadic warnings - ESC, air bags, service engine light, Traction control, etc.. Also radio off prior to start would make a rythmic thumping sound. When I tried to start the vehicle it sounded like the starter pinion was engaging, disengaging, re-engaging. Eventually it would start but sounded like hell. Seemed to be running OK once started. Checked battery OK. Did some research and found likely suspect in a TSB about the fuse block connections going bad.
Here's what I found:
There is a hot lead(positive) post adjacent to the underhood fuse block that is used for attaching jumper cables. Tried to remove the red cover at the hot lead post and it wouldn't move. Pushed a little harder and it kinda broke off at the hinge. Under the cover I found the positive post attached to a lug from the fuse block, with two positive cables attached. The post retaining nut was loose, hence the cables were loose and making intermitent contact with the fuse block connection. The base of the positive post cover had melted from the heat generated by the bad connection. I cleaned all the electrical connections with a wire brush/scotch brite, coated everything with dielectric grease and reassembled nice and snug. Also put a second retaining nut on the post to act as a jamb nut to prevent any future loosening. I'm gonna take it to the dealer to show them the faulty area so it will be documented, just in case the jerky starting scenario caused any damage to the starter pinion/flywheel ring gear.
I know this is a long post, but I'm hoping it will save someone else some heartache.

 

Excellent discovery.....my hat is off to you

Many on this forum still hold to the "loose fuse" theory, even thougfh it can not physically happen. Generally, pushing on the "loose" fuses reconnects the 2 piece fuse box. Thus, providing false evidence the fuses are the problem.

 

may i make a request
to make atleast the 1st couple post
in this thread from back in 2005 or 2006
a stickie of some kind.
I have poked around this forum for a while
and i never saw this, Maybe i need to go off the deep
end more often and see the old threads.
Gonna check my fuses under hood tomorrow ~
Ok. . immma going back the rock i crawled out from
under
Dw~

 

checked , cleaned , tightened , secured, all isssues resolved for the discharging battery issue, for my 07

 

The website for the link in the first post is defunct.

 

Get used to it - - it was originally posted back in 2005 - so it is almost 8 years old. As they say, $hit happens.