whopper

pbatmen - are you sure your Code reader is compatible with the OBDII -CAN system? ('CAN" being the important point) If your reader is more than a few years old, it may not pickup the CAN protocol as needed for reading the codes.

skyline26 - I think you are likely looking at a different problem. No codes?

pbatmen

i am pretty sure it is up to date with can. I can check on Wenesday, but for me at this point with 183,000 miles I have no problem replacing the solenoids for 70 bucks. thanks for all the help. I will keep the post informed.

pbatmen

I put the new solenoids i this weekend, and so far so good. it looks like they helped with my transmission issue and it looks like the low end has more power and does not have to down shift as much. It is still early so I am cautious but so far so good. Thanks for this great post.

georgec1

I've read all 22 pages and have not found anyone with my situation. I have had an intermittant CEL for about a year. The engine and transmission are working fine and the TC light has never come on. The CEL, when it comes on, usually goes out in a week or 2 and stays off for a month or 2. I took the car to the inspection station (NJ) and, of course, the CEL comes on. It failed showing a P0010. I just checked both intake and exhaust actuators and they check good both reading around 10 ohms. Should I replace the intake actuator anyway or is it possible just the sensor is bad? I have a 2008 with the 2.4L Ecotec.

whopper

I'd go ahead and replace the intake actuator solenoid - it's not that many $'s and is a pretty quick and easy job to do.

The problem can be VERY intermittant, like you have noted.

Oh, one thought - have you tried disconnecting the solenoid electrical connector and cleaning the contacts with contact cleaner or such? And inspected the wiring for fraying etc.?

georgec1

I disconnected the connectors today to check the resistance. The wiring and connectors looked good. I didn't use any contact cleaner but disconnecting and reconnecting the harness should help any corrosion for now. I have 68k miles on the car so I was thinking I should take it to the dealer and have them replace the solenoid under warranty. Is it strange I am not experiencing any motor or transmission problems, just an intermittant CEL?

Sno White

When I was having my problems some physical resistance measurements were good and others were bad. Finally, I figured out it was the connector terminal inside the solenoid that was failing.

If I pushed the square wire/terminal in one direction I did not get the low resistance of 10 – 15 ohms. If I pressed in another direction it changed. Eventually the internal connection failed in all directions.

My dealer could not diagnose the problem so I replaced the solenoid on my own. I was still under warrantee. The dealer’s problem was that he did not have constant access to the vehicle like I did. I could do the measurements everyday or every time I got a code until I was very confident that the solenoid had permanently failed.

Until my measurements were way off I did not have any engine problems.

whopper

georgec1 - if you are still under warranty, yeah take it to the dealer and see what they will do for you. It's probably best to let the code pop up, and let the dealer see the CEL and they can run their code reader on it to see it first hand.

Sno White made some good points there - keep them in mind in case you (georgec1) want to swap it out yourself.

Keep us posted on the outcome if you can.

Putter

Got my first Check Engine light in the HHR today. I had been noticing a slight stutter (random) while sitting at redlights. Today it was bad enough that my wife asked if we were even going to make it home.
Stopped by the box store (Autozone) and had the code read: P0010
They instantly tried to sell me a pair of Cam Position Sensors @ $49.95 each

Luckily I remembered seeing several posts about various trouble codes and decided to come home first and read up on the issue.
GLAD I DID!!!!

I just ordered both parts (12655420 & 12655421) from number1gmparts on E-bay. They are a dealership in West Palm Beach, FL with a 99.9% positive feedback rating. The listings state that they only sell items that are in stock and that all parts are warranty-covered GM parts and not Delphi or an off-brand.
I tried GMPartsDirect, but they listed them both as "special order" which could take over 10 days to even ship.
I tried GMPartsCenter.net, but the PayPal option kept giving me errors.
Estimated delivery is only 3 days (Florida to Mississippi).
Only a touch more than the other two suppliers mentioned above ($39.99 ea), but worth it, all things considered.
Hopefully this will solve my issue, like it has so many others.
And like everyone before me, THANKS to Whopper for laying out the details.

whopper

Putter - glad you twigged onto the sensor vrs solenoid jargon. Keep us posted on how it goes with the repair.

If you get a chance, check the resistance of the two old ones as well as the new ones and let us know what you record there. It might help someone later.

As the P0010 refers to the Intake solenoid, and you ordered both the intake and exhaust, I'd put both new ones in, and throw the old exhaust one on the shelf as a "spare", and chuck the old intake in the garbage.

good luck man.