How to: Liftgate Emergency Switch
03-02-2009, 06:48 PM
#11
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 02-09-2009
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 296
No, why do you ask???? I could just remove the panel again and take a picture? It was like 28 degrees all day when I was doing this mod. I froze my butt off.
03-05-2009, 01:40 PM
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: 12-24-2008
Location: N/A
Posts: 717
Another Option:
would like to offer another option to the quandary of opening the rear hatch in case of trouble, emergency or malfunction of the BCM.
I pack the rear of my vehicle with work tools, ladders and supplies this makes it not at all easy to climb back there and get to either that little slot or press another button located in the rear of the vehicle. Perhaps others have speaker boxes or other large items in the way as well.
The under hood fuse box offers an easier solution for me. I remove the rear latch relay(#18) and jumper between the 30 & 87 terminals or apply battery voltage thru a fused(20 AMP) jumper to the relay terminal(87) that powers the latch gate motor.
Terminal 87 is the relay terminal corresponding to the left rear passenger door. Terminal 30 corresponds to the right front passenger door.
With the addition of an external battery this will even work when the vehicle battery is dead.
Do not use paper clips or other large probes to do this as they might bugger up contacts in your under hood fuse box. A way to do this is to go to a hobby shop selling .031” X .25” brass strips and trim it down to ~ .1” wide, attach some wire/fuse holder and your set to go. This will work for the small fuses(ATM) and the relay sockets.
I pack the rear of my vehicle with work tools, ladders and supplies this makes it not at all easy to climb back there and get to either that little slot or press another button located in the rear of the vehicle. Perhaps others have speaker boxes or other large items in the way as well.
The under hood fuse box offers an easier solution for me. I remove the rear latch relay(#18) and jumper between the 30 & 87 terminals or apply battery voltage thru a fused(20 AMP) jumper to the relay terminal(87) that powers the latch gate motor.
Terminal 87 is the relay terminal corresponding to the left rear passenger door. Terminal 30 corresponds to the right front passenger door.
With the addition of an external battery this will even work when the vehicle battery is dead.
Do not use paper clips or other large probes to do this as they might bugger up contacts in your under hood fuse box. A way to do this is to go to a hobby shop selling .031” X .25” brass strips and trim it down to ~ .1” wide, attach some wire/fuse holder and your set to go. This will work for the small fuses(ATM) and the relay sockets.
03-05-2009, 01:51 PM
#16
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 02-09-2009
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 296
would like to offer another option to the quandary of opening the rear hatch in case of trouble, emergency or malfunction of the BCM.
I pack the rear of my vehicle with work tools, ladders and supplies this makes it not at all easy to climb back there and get to either that little slot or press another button located in the rear of the vehicle. Perhaps others have speaker boxes or other large items in the way as well.
The under hood fuse box offers an easier solution for me. I remove the rear latch relay(#18) and jumper between the 30 & 87 terminals or apply battery voltage thru a fused(20 AMP) jumper to the relay terminal(87) that powers the latch gate motor.
Terminal 87 is the relay terminal corresponding to the left rear passenger door. Terminal 30 corresponds to the right front passenger door.
With the addition of an external battery this will even work when the vehicle battery is dead.
Do not use paper clips or other large probes to do this as they might bugger up contacts in your under hood fuse box. A way to do this is to go to a hobby shop selling .031” X .25” brass strips and trim it down to ~ .1” wide, attach some wire/fuse holder and your set to go. This will work for the small fuses(ATM) and the relay sockets.
I pack the rear of my vehicle with work tools, ladders and supplies this makes it not at all easy to climb back there and get to either that little slot or press another button located in the rear of the vehicle. Perhaps others have speaker boxes or other large items in the way as well.
The under hood fuse box offers an easier solution for me. I remove the rear latch relay(#18) and jumper between the 30 & 87 terminals or apply battery voltage thru a fused(20 AMP) jumper to the relay terminal(87) that powers the latch gate motor.
Terminal 87 is the relay terminal corresponding to the left rear passenger door. Terminal 30 corresponds to the right front passenger door.
With the addition of an external battery this will even work when the vehicle battery is dead.
Do not use paper clips or other large probes to do this as they might bugger up contacts in your under hood fuse box. A way to do this is to go to a hobby shop selling .031” X .25” brass strips and trim it down to ~ .1” wide, attach some wire/fuse holder and your set to go. This will work for the small fuses(ATM) and the relay sockets.
Eventually I would do the same switch, but mount it under the steering column or something.
03-05-2009, 06:17 PM
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: 12-24-2008
Location: N/A
Posts: 717
OK, here are pictures.
I don't anticipate having to use any procedure often to open the hatch, so I'll just be sticking with my fused jumper for those rare occasions.
The under hood Fuse Box all of us should be familiar with:
I'll let you find and identify the Lift gate Relay.
If you happen to notice some extra fuses in the Top Row that your vehicle does not have - do not worry; it is just my way of storing some spares. After hearing all the horror stories of vehicles being jumped incorrectly and blowing that so precious Power Steering (EPS) fuse I went and bought one of each size the vehicle uses.
It is so very important that you do not exceed the size of the existing fuse and relay terminal size of .031" thickness.
Process of contact fabrication and Fused Jumper
I used the small size ATM fuse holder so I would always have on hand and use the correct fuse for the job.
Using Aux Battery to open lift gate when the vehicle battery is dead.
Fused Jumper Use off of the vehicle battery.
Close-up of "Terminal 87" Relay 18; notice I have marked this with some white paint so in the future when this is not so fresh in my mind I will have a reminder of what contact to supply power to.
The Fused Jumper will reside in the glove box.
I don't anticipate having to use any procedure often to open the hatch, so I'll just be sticking with my fused jumper for those rare occasions.
The under hood Fuse Box all of us should be familiar with:
I'll let you find and identify the Lift gate Relay.
If you happen to notice some extra fuses in the Top Row that your vehicle does not have - do not worry; it is just my way of storing some spares. After hearing all the horror stories of vehicles being jumped incorrectly and blowing that so precious Power Steering (EPS) fuse I went and bought one of each size the vehicle uses.
It is so very important that you do not exceed the size of the existing fuse and relay terminal size of .031" thickness.
Process of contact fabrication and Fused Jumper
I used the small size ATM fuse holder so I would always have on hand and use the correct fuse for the job.
Using Aux Battery to open lift gate when the vehicle battery is dead.
Fused Jumper Use off of the vehicle battery.
Close-up of "Terminal 87" Relay 18; notice I have marked this with some white paint so in the future when this is not so fresh in my mind I will have a reminder of what contact to supply power to.
The Fused Jumper will reside in the glove box.
Last edited by Sno White; 03-05-2009 at 06:30 PM. Reason: Elaboration & spelling
02-11-2012, 08:29 PM
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: 12-24-2008
Location: N/A
Posts: 717
Possibly, it depends upon how much current the 9VDC battery is capable of supplying.
If you are referring to the standard 9VDC battery found in many small consumer electronics products – then absolutely NOT.
Opps, I dated myself. Most consumer electronic products now use AA or AAA batteries.
If you are referring to the standard 9VDC battery found in many small consumer electronics products – then absolutely NOT.
Opps, I dated myself. Most consumer electronic products now use AA or AAA batteries.
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