Same factory in China. Price difference is the printing on the box.

 

All the steel for these parts are made in China now. The originals were probably made in Mexico with Chinese steel. The whole LCA set comes with all the bushings and everything to bolt it right on.

This was the one part of the suspension I didn't touch, but I did take a good look at them to see how hard it would be to take out. Other than the clearance with the sway bar I don't see it being very hard at all. Probably about as easy as a quick strut.

I suggest buying the cheapest part you can find from a reputable seller (O'rielley, advance, napa, autozone, rockauto) and if you never have to replace it you save, if you do have to replace it at least it was cheap and easy.

Here is rockauto's movotech for $75 a side with everything ready to go: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...384&cc=3035095

 

Nice write-up, I wish that my experience went as easy as "Whopper's". I am not new at this, I am a previous owner of VW's that had a similar setup from '87 to at least '94 maybe beyond. Maybe b/c I live in MI where salt is applied to the roads. The rear bushing bolt which is "6-"8 long, the bushing seized or rusted on it, therefore, during removal the worn out bushing core spun with the bolt. It was a BISKET getting that rear bolt out, lucky I had a small pipe wrench that I could insert between the frame and the control arm, and a 3/4" drive wrench set that gave me the mechanical advantage to turn bolt easier. Also, I had to jam a punch between the nut or retainer and the frame to keep it from spinning. This only worked through the power of God! It is so close behind the steering rack and frame again, this was a wing and a prayer situation. Now I know why VW used a shim or bushing-bushing insert that fit inside the entire length of the bushing and then the bolt. Another thing, I could not use heat b/c of the fuel line, steering rack bellows, and remaining rubber from the bushing. I had no idea that the bushing bolt was that long! Finally, I used lots and lots and lots of lubricant, WD-40, P&B, and Liquid Wrench. In the re-assembly, I did not have any anti-seize lubricant so I used some leftover CV joint backing grease to lubricant all the control arm mounting bolts and knuckle in my efforts to prevent future seizing.

Any suggestions that would make the right side experience run smoother are much welcomed. My plan is to pre-lubricate the rear bushing bolt to death starting today in plan to change it next weekend.

I hope this is helpful to the team.

Kindest regards,

hhrsskzoo5spd

 

Also, I forgot to post in my previous post that I used genuine GM Parts, I ordered them from GMPartsNow.COM I got them in least than a week. Everything so far has matched up. FYI, I still have to replace the drive belt tensioner as a preventive maintenance, original with 259K miles (Freeway mostly).

hhrsskzoo5spd

 

How do I know if I have the FE1 suspension, and would this type arm (stamped steel) be reliable?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Control-Arm-Ball-Joint-Suspension-Kit-Left-Right-Side-Front-Lower-Chevy-/231156658624?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3AChevrolet%7CModel%3AHHR&hash=item35d202b1c0&vxp=mtr
Thanks Bill

 

Check the codes on the label inside the glove box for either FE1/3 or FE5. I thought the stamped steel ones were for the cobalt - the HHR's all have aluminum ones.
but those will fit according to the posting on ebay - at that price they might be worth a try.

 

Thanks Whopper,
The only F # on the label is FE1, my HHR does have the alum arms, the ebay lists for FE1 suspension.
Looks cheaper than parts to rebuild the ones on the car. Think I may go that way. BTW, is the HHR a car,truck,SUV,or what???

great site....Bill

 

The HHR is considered a wagon if Im not mistaken.

 

It's a truck here,according to the state of Alabama and my insurance company.
I think it varies depending on where or who is "categorizing" it.

 

Here in the glorious free state of Illinois mine is licensed as a car.

When I lived in northwest Wisconsin my little Willis Jeep was licensed as a truck.

Since I lived outside the city limits when I bought the Jeep I got farm plates even though I explained I was just renting the house and not farming. The guy at the license department said “Close enough”and issued me farm plates anyway.

It saved me like $18.00, plates for a pickup were $55.00 back then.