donbrew

Go to AutoZone/Advance and borrow the tools. You will need 2 sets to get all you need. They are screw driven.

This sort of thing:

Oldblue

The new Moog bushing didn’t require a lot of pressure, I put the socket on it and tapped it into the LCA, then used the air chisel to drive it home , the vibrations did most of the work.
I’ve got a set of LCA’s here , I’ll make a video.
Explaination is harder without photos or videos.

Heritage High Roof

JCC

Here is a way to test the CHEVY HHR, Lower control arms, for BAD CONTROL ARMs giving the SIGNS & SYMPTOMS

Part 1 First test outside the car... drive way simple testing to start with ...



Part 2 Under car LCA rear bushing test.

donbrew

Like I have always said: "most warped rotors are actually bad LCA bushing". Nobody listens.

I have experienced the "car shifts forward on braking" it really feels odd.

Oldblue

I’ve listened, or comprehended what you typed!

Good videos, thanks for the post!

JCC

One important part to me and onewhich Heritage High Roof made a note to, is to get asolid bushing replace part and not thefactory type with the two holes molded in it. These just don’t seem to last aslong and really tear up bad, coming apart from the O.D. steel ring. Most manufacturesmake both types be it just the bushings or the complete replacement LCA arms. So Iwould check and make sure to get the solid bushing type. The bushing are affordable, the LCA, completeare big bucks… BUT it makes for a faster and easier job. If you get thecomplete LCA save the old ones and rebuild them for back-up later. …(or sendthem to me)… Really, I’m going to ask the dealer if I can have an old pair whenthey take the next ones off… Also a friend who has a garage. What have I got tolose in asking?


I now agree too that we need to check the LCA and not jump into thinking it has to be the brakes! Good point made....

Oldblue

The solid rubber bushing is no match for the Moog Problem Solver bearing bushing.
K200792 , they also now have a zinc coated bushings




OEM 2 hole hinge bushing on the left after just 40,000 klms, the Moog K200792 bearing bushing in the right

JCC

I have to replace the LCA and found some with grease-able ball joints and this had me thinking which one do we use and which one is best for a given car. I found this to help with the question... but remember you should GREASE them every 3,000 miles or so, just remember this point.


http://mas-industries.com/media-asset/why-low-friction/ BallJoints: To grease or not to grease parts




I found them on ebay here (NOTE you can not call or write to them, got questions and you are out of luck).


https://www.ebay.com/itm/Premium-Quality-Pair-of-Control-Arms-w-Greaseable-Ball-Joint-Chevy-HHR-06-11/222792427357?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SI M%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D44039%26meid%3Dbc6da41f0bf742c0 b9718882ce5c854b%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D1 2%26sd%3D322994614211%26itm%3D222792427357&_trksid =p2047675.c100005.m1851

Oldblue

They still have the rubber rear bushings, why not rebuild your old LCA’s?
Moog ball joints andbearing bushings.