Replacing Lower Control Arms
01-10-2018, 10:43 AM
#121
Member
Join Date: 02-27-2015
Location: Cary, NC
Posts: 41
Great tutorial. Thank you for that. Watching Youtube videos gave me the confidence to do it. Your tutorial gave me the right torque for each bolt that wasn't in any of the videos.
I have not done this job yet but have the Aluminum LCAs ordered from Rock Auto.
One question: I'm not sure if there was conflicting information in this thread regarding alignment or if I misunderstood (probably the latter). When the shop does an alignment on the HHR, do they adjust the caster, camber and toe or just the toe?
I have not done this job yet but have the Aluminum LCAs ordered from Rock Auto.
One question: I'm not sure if there was conflicting information in this thread regarding alignment or if I misunderstood (probably the latter). When the shop does an alignment on the HHR, do they adjust the caster, camber and toe or just the toe?
01-10-2018, 11:17 AM
#122
Technical Moderator
Join Date: 01-23-2009
Location: Fredericksburg, Virginia
Posts: 24,672
The only adjustment available on a stock HHR is toe. Some have had an after market kit installed for camber. Caster is determined by the uni-body.
If the car has never been re-aligned it does not need regular alignments. If it was aligned with worn (not necessarily worn out) parts it will need to go in regularly and after parts are replaced.
If the car has never been re-aligned it does not need regular alignments. If it was aligned with worn (not necessarily worn out) parts it will need to go in regularly and after parts are replaced.
02-20-2018, 07:09 AM
#124
Member
Join Date: 02-27-2015
Location: Cary, NC
Posts: 41
I am an absolute novice but was able to complete the job in an afternoon on both sides. Repairpal tells me I saved about $500. :)
My lessons learned:
-My most frustrating part was not seating the new ball joint. My most frustrating part was removing and replacing the rear mount. It was difficult to get it in and lined up even with a pry bar. After monkeying with it for a while, I was able to get the first replacement seated. The second side was easier with lessons learned from the first.
-The first side took me about an hour and a half after I had all of the right tools gathered. The second side took forty-five minutes.
-An 18 or 20" extension for your socket makes the frame bolts a breeze. Without it, it would be extremely annoying. I had to borrow this but will be buying one.
All in all, not a terrible job for a novice with these terrific instruction. Thank you again.
My lessons learned:
-My most frustrating part was not seating the new ball joint. My most frustrating part was removing and replacing the rear mount. It was difficult to get it in and lined up even with a pry bar. After monkeying with it for a while, I was able to get the first replacement seated. The second side was easier with lessons learned from the first.
-The first side took me about an hour and a half after I had all of the right tools gathered. The second side took forty-five minutes.
-An 18 or 20" extension for your socket makes the frame bolts a breeze. Without it, it would be extremely annoying. I had to borrow this but will be buying one.
All in all, not a terrible job for a novice with these terrific instruction. Thank you again.
02-20-2018, 11:21 AM
#126
Administrator
Join Date: 10-13-2011
Location: Welland,Ont Canada
Posts: 36,460
I have determined, jack and support both front sides of the frame, then do one sides LCA at a time , then the rear bolts seem easier to thread in, an impact gun winds them in much easier also.
And for me it’s effortless, Dan does all the grunt work! I better treat him to a poutine, and a double cheese burger!
And for me it’s effortless, Dan does all the grunt work! I better treat him to a poutine, and a double cheese burger!
04-22-2018, 01:37 PM
#128
Moderator
Join Date: 05-01-2014
Location: California
Posts: 7,791
OK, I must be wrong, wrong, wrong. When I asked for an arm for a FE1 they showed me a fabricated one. When I asked for an arm for a FE3 they showed me an aluminum one. So much for dealers. I bought the aluminum one and was assured it was the correct one. After pushing, pulling, beating, etc, etc I could not get the rear bushing in. Measuring it I found the old rear bushing is 50.5 mm and the new one is 55.5 mm. Don't think I can beat that one in.
Found this, 55mm he says purchased from dealer, but he later gives a Dorman part number, which Amazon says fits(not FE5). https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-...e4/#post737963
Last edited by RJ_RS_SS_350; 04-22-2018 at 04:05 PM.
04-22-2018, 02:57 PM
#129
Senior Member
Join Date: 08-03-2010
Location: Lake Ronkonkoma, N.Y.
Posts: 3,564
OK just read your post RJ, but here's the question.
Why does it show a different P/N for FE5 vs the other suspensions?
Why would GM make two different LCA rear bushings?
Installing a MOOG problem solver bushing is only one P/N that works for all suspensions.
Yes it's only for Cobalt SS but you know it works in the HHR.
I could be wrong.
Why does it show a different P/N for FE5 vs the other suspensions?
Why would GM make two different LCA rear bushings?
Installing a MOOG problem solver bushing is only one P/N that works for all suspensions.
Yes it's only for Cobalt SS but you know it works in the HHR.
I could be wrong.
04-22-2018, 03:02 PM
#130
Moderator
Join Date: 05-01-2014
Location: California
Posts: 7,791
OK just read your post RJ, but here's the question.
Why does it show a different P/N for FE5 vs the other suspensions?
Why would GM make two different LCA rear bushings?
Installing a MOOG problem solver bushing is only one P/N that works for all suspensions.
Yes it's only for Cobalt SS but you know it works in the HHR.
I could be wrong.
Why does it show a different P/N for FE5 vs the other suspensions?
Why would GM make two different LCA rear bushings?
Installing a MOOG problem solver bushing is only one P/N that works for all suspensions.
Yes it's only for Cobalt SS but you know it works in the HHR.
I could be wrong.