DonBrew, do not doubt that. The lead tech said, she started to see that the new tensioner has problems, and she is now seeing it more often. She assumed that the new tensioner would fix the problem, but was not a long term fix. And she said it happens on all GM vehicles with ecotec engines. They make a point of removing the valve cover of vehicles before replacing the tensioner to make sure there is no further damage. Even thought she said you do not have to remove the valve cover to install the new tensioner. And they do not charge extra for this procedure. She also stated that they want customers to be taken care of, so they come back and still buy cars there.

 

Yeah the 2016 Malibu my wife is looking at has a 1.5 litre Ecotec turbo and the new hump style tensioner!!

 

You do have to remove the cover, the tensioner is highly unlikely to pop itself out from its restrained position that it arrives in without risking the chain jumping teeth before it's tight. it may be less of an issue with a younger chain, but once there's some wear in the chain and guides, there's more slack to be taken up after installation.

 

The tech stated that when you put it in, you should feel a click, at that point it has released itself, but only on the newer ones, not the old ones.That is why the procedure for the new ones do not include taking off the valve cover. And the flat rate manual states only 1.5 hour for the whole procedure. The tech told me that they check with the valve cover off, to make sure no other damage occurred. But it is not part of the procedure.

 

Go ahead. Do it your tech's way. Mmhmm. Works wonderful. Ask me how I know.

 

I think "new chain, new tensioner" is the key. Old chain, new tensioner needs popping.

I wonder what clicks when the tensioner is simply screwed in? As I understand the design it doesn't move at all until oil pressure is applied, then the theory is that releases it.

I think if the chain is new the initial whip crack does the popping.

 

Not sure what the click is as I did not do it. But for motors to have this kind of problem with a timing chain is unreal. From what I understand from the tech, they doubt the engineer's new design. Chains, tensioners, broken guides, you name it she said, and a lot of the vehicles have not even hit the 100000 mark. She does not trust the engineering of the company anymore. She stated that the problems should have been resolved years ago. She said it reminds her of the intake manifold problem GM had a few years back. Always a new fix, but nothing worked.

 

OLD Tensioner removal note:
If you are removing an old tensioner it is VERY IMPORTANT that you remove the camshaft cover from the head BEFORE you loosen the tensioner so your old tensioner doesn't drop all it's internal bits inside your timing chain case. OUCH!

You need to apply pressure towards the tensioner by pulling up on the chain hanging over the exhaust cam at the rear of the engine while unscrewing the tensioner. This will keep all the little bits of the tensioner INSIDE the tensioner.
You don't need to collapse the tensioner, just keep it the piston inside it while unscrewing it.

This will also keep the lower part of the chain engaged in your crank sprocket so it doesn't skip a tooth or two. Make sure to keep holding the chain under tension until you get the new tensioner fully installed and activated.

If you see that the chain is still loose after activating the tensioner you will need to replace the chain to prevent further damage to the upper portion of the fixed chain guide.

I have found loose chains will cause the old style tensioners to skip past their fully extended stop to the completely disassembled state. You can't tell if it is in this state until it over extends inside your engine while you're unscrewing it.
Good Luck.

 

Worth re stating after 16 pages. Seems a lot of people only read the first and last pages of threads.

 

But easier for people to find if their just looking for insight.