Always serious when it comes to my job and knowing the facts.

The bulletin # I posted is very long but here is the warranty portion of it.


BRAKE WARRANTY
Brake Rotors:

• Brake rotor warranty is covered under the terms of the GM New Vehicle Limited Warranty. Reference the vehicle's warranty guide for verification.

• Rotors should not be refinished or replaced during normal/routine pad replacement.

• Rotors should not be refinished or replaced and is ineffective in correcting brake squeal type noises and/or premature lining wear out.

• Rotors should not be refinished or replaced for cosmetic corrosion. Clean up of braking surfaces can be accomplished by 10-15 moderate stops from 56-64 km/h (35-40 mph) with cooling time between stops.

• Rotors should not be refinished or replaced for rotor discoloration/hard spots.

• Rotors should be refinished NOT replaced for Customer Pulsation concerns. This condition is a result of rotor thickness variation, usually caused by LRO (wear induced over time and miles) or corrosion (Lot Rot).

• When rotor refinishing, only remove the necessary amount of material from each side of the rotor and note that equal amounts of material do not have to be removed from both sides on any brake system using a floating caliper.

• Rotors should be refinished for severe scoring -- depth in excess of 1.5 mm (0.060 in).


Important: If the scoring depth is more than 1.5 mm (0.060 in) after the rotor is refinished, it should be replaced.


• It is not necessary to replace rotors in pairs. Rotors may be replaced individually. However, caution should be exercised, as a variance in surface finish may cause a brake pull condition.

• New rotors should not be refinished before installation. Original equipment rotor surfaces are ground to ensure smooth finish and parallelism between mounting and friction surfaces. If a new rotor has more than 0.050 mm (0.002 in) Lateral Run Out (LRO) when properly mounted on the hub, correct it using one of the following methods:

1. For hubless rotor designs, use the correction plate procedure found in the "GM Brake Service Procedure for Hubless Rotors" outlined in this bulletin.

2. For hubbed/trapped/captured rotor designs, refinish the rotor using an On-Car lathe and the procedure outlined in this bulletin.

• Never reuse rotors that measure under the Minimum Thickness specification. In this instance, the rotor should be replaced.

 

It appears to me that you three have dealership problems, not GM problems.

 

X 2......... Catch more bees with Honey.. etc.

 

Yeah, sorry about going off-topic, but I had my rotors done three times under warranty.

 

They told me it was not a warranty covered item, and couldn't be done as one.

 

Not all dealers are the same, although they should be. I tried about six before i found a service dept i was happy with.

 

That's typically the case. I had an Astro under the 36k warrantee some years ago that had a knock at 35k mi. The dealer I brought it to replaced the fuel filter and said it was fixed. They charged me $60 because they said it wasn't a warrantee item. After their so called "repair", it still had the knock.

I brought it to a DIFFERENT dealer (why would I go back to the same one as many people do?). The 2nd dealer diagnosed it as piston slap. They also found that the fuel filter installed by the first dealer had the arrow pointed back toward the tank (THE FIRST DEALER PUT IT IN BACKWARDS!). The 2nd dealer provided a brand new short block and did all the labor no charge, except for the price of 6 spark plugs, which were recommended, but not required. My engine warrantee was extended for another 50k miles.

If I had stayed with the first dealer, I'd probably be blaming GM and would have bought some beer can bodied Asian car (I previously had 2 Toyota trucks that rusted miserably; although I took impeccable care of them). Instead, because I got a second opinion from another dealer, GM did right by me.

 

So which dealer are you happy with? If you don't mind saying.

 

the sad thing is the service department i usually work with has turned the roders at 900 miles and again at 2000 miles so the have been turned twice still no fix i kept thinking well maybe they will break in now im sick of the noise and wonder how much a roder can be turned before its to thin I bought this car with 3 miles on it and it did it on very hard stops than made its way to all stops i was told the roders was BLUED??? and turned out to fast this last visit when i was told it was not covered??? so i am going to try another dealer and see ware it leads it will be Tuesday or Wednesday before i get it in the shop

 

Ok so i went to another dealer to check on my brake noise they could not find any issues and i was told it was my tires gripping the road during a stop so i got mad and left and went to another dealer wich had a 2009 HHR ls with 17000 miles on it and the whole face of the roder fell off of it and guess what Mine has 3 or 4 cracks in the fins between the roders on driver and 2 cracks on passenger GM MGR your advice could have saved my life and i dearly thank you for that and every one needs to be advised to look over it I would give any thing to have my camera working i would post pics I'm getting new roders in the morning when the truck gets there to deliver roders for mine and the 09