Not sure if this closed thread will flat anyone but thought it worth posting here as prior info is here as well.

happy st patty’s day!

Last night I drove the wife’s car and noticed some “hesitation”? During a couple accelerations.. this morning happened to drive it again and it was idling rough cycling between 600-1000 rpm and lurching the car while in gear. Both on cold starts.

I made it to my appointment and when I started it back up 45 minutes later CEL came on but it was running smooth again. I drove it home and got the scanner out and got the p0014 code.

I checked the oil, still on the dipstick, added a quart, anyway, in operating range after (half way through oil life monitor) last oil change guys informed me it was low so possibly burning oil now, just hit 150k mikes.

So vvt’s got replaced just over a year ago.. well rated Amazon part, but not ac Delco, and a quarter of the price. Should I be looking to replace these again? Timing chain/adjusters etc have never been touched.

Any and all thought are appreciated in advance! :)

 

happy st patty’s day!

Last night I drove the wife’s car and noticed some “hesitation”? During a couple accelerations.. this morning happened to drive it again and it was idling rough cycling between 600-1000 rpm and lurching the car while in gear. Both on cold starts.

I made it to my appointment and when I started it back up 45 minutes later CEL came on but it was running smooth again. I drove it home and got the scanner out and got the p0014 code.

I checked the oil, still on the dipstick, added a quart, anyway, in operating range after (half way through oil life monitor) last oil change guys informed me it was low so possibly burning oil now, just hit 150k mikes.

So vvt’s got replaced just over a year ago.. well rated Amazon part, but not ac Delco, and a quarter of the price. Should I be looking to replace these again? Timing chain/adjusters etc have never been touched.

Any and all thought are appreciated in advance! :)

 

Better pull the valve cover and inspect the timing components. Just to be safe. If it's all nice and tight, replace the VVT solenoid.

 

Don't over fill oil, between the lines is good.
P0014 is about the VVT actuators not the VVT valves. The actuators are part of the cam sprockets. The VVT valves are on top of the engine next to #1 spark plug. Thew VVT sensors are on the sides of the engine.

P0014 meant that the exhaust actuator is not where it has been commanded to be. That could be because the exhaust VVT valve is not doing its job or the Exhaust sensor is not doing its job or the exhaust actuator is not doing its job. The actuators and the valves can be inhibited by dirty oil or just wear out. An electrical problem would be P0013./10 a chain problem would be P0016/17.

If you are burning oil there is a good chance there is metal flakes in the oil that are clogging the VVT valve screens. You might fix it with new VVT VALVES.
The transmission hard shifting is caused by the P0014 code.

Which part do you mean by "vvt's"?

 

If you're not getting any chain noise, a very good bet (and easy) is to replace the exhaust solenoid valve only. But use AC Delco this time. Take a good hard look at the screen on the one that comes out. What's the oil change history? Using a good quality synthetic?

 

P0014, results was a stretched timing chain, for me, I replaced both VVT solenoids with GM solenoids and replaced the timing chain


This was enough slack from stretched chain

 

Hi all thanks for the replies so far.

vvt solenoid valves were replaced last year, ac Delco wasn’t available and I needed something quick before I went into surgery and was armless for a while..Amazon sufficed.

oil changes have been regular and quality per the monitor. Still in operational range after quart I just added but obviously going through a little oil. Probably going forward will increase the frequency of oil changes around 50% monitor life? Or at least be adding oil, open to thoughts and suggestions.

What does timing chain noise sound like? Again it has not been serviced thus far, not sure if I could handle it myself or not? It is a 2011 so sounds like the guides got upgraded from earlier models that were allowing slack sooner with wear.

I did not find obvious metal shavings last year when i changed out the vvt’s have not pulled out anything to inspect as of yet. Still on original spark plugs and was wondering what else I can get lined up to service if I am jumping back in. At least both arms work now :)

 

The guides were never upgraded, ZZP has an upgraded front guide, Dorman and Melling have a better bolt for the upper bolt in the front guide

https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-...in-kits-60394/

There are kits for VVT engines like your 2011, no cam phaser sprockets to keep costs down.

 

I did pull valve cover, timing chain looked ok with no slack.. replaced Vvt solenoids “again” with acdelco this time and seems to be running fine again after reset and several drive cycles.

thanks as always to the support everyone provides in this group!

 

If you are going to call them "solenoids" be sure to add "valve". The "solenoids" are what others call phasers; the VVT valves control the solenoids. Then the wizards decided to call the sensors "solenoid sensors".
VVT camshaft solenoids
VVT camshaft solenoid valves
VVT camshaft solenoid sensors

No confusion there.