How to change your own oil.
Platinum Member
Joined: 01-09-2007
Posts: 16,081
From: SE USA
Platinum Member
Joined: 12-06-2009
Posts: 11,721
From: Alabama
I remember a thread or discussion a good while back that talked about it. I recall that the SS owners said it didn't work for them either.
Must be something different in the programming between the ECMs, BCMs or which ever one controls the reset function.
Platinum Member
Joined: 12-06-2009
Posts: 11,721
From: Alabama
I borrowed this post info from ChevyMgr. Back from 2009.
#PIP4511: Unable To Reset The Engine Oil Life System Using The Accelerator Pedal - keywords DIC ECM EOL engine inop inoperative intermittent life lof lnf maintenance message monitor oil OLM pedal performance - (Oct 16, 2008)
Subject: Unable to Reset the Engine Oil Life System Using the Accelerator Pedal
Models: 2008-2009 Chevrolet HHR SS With Engine RPO LNF ONLY --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.
Condition/Concern:
A technician may report that the Engine Oil Life (EOL) will not reset.
Recommendation/Instructions:
Engineering has determined that the ECM for the 2008-09 HHR SS does not support the use of the accelerator pedal for the Engine Oil Life System reset procedure. This is listed incorrectly in eSI and the Owners Manuals of this vehicle; and is in the process of being changed.
Technicians should be advised to use the DIC procedure or Tech2 to perform the EOL reset.
#PIP4511: Unable To Reset The Engine Oil Life System Using The Accelerator Pedal - keywords DIC ECM EOL engine inop inoperative intermittent life lof lnf maintenance message monitor oil OLM pedal performance - (Oct 16, 2008)
Subject: Unable to Reset the Engine Oil Life System Using the Accelerator Pedal
Models: 2008-2009 Chevrolet HHR SS With Engine RPO LNF ONLY --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.
Condition/Concern:
A technician may report that the Engine Oil Life (EOL) will not reset.
Recommendation/Instructions:
Engineering has determined that the ECM for the 2008-09 HHR SS does not support the use of the accelerator pedal for the Engine Oil Life System reset procedure. This is listed incorrectly in eSI and the Owners Manuals of this vehicle; and is in the process of being changed.
Technicians should be advised to use the DIC procedure or Tech2 to perform the EOL reset.
Inquiring minds wanna know...
New Member
Joined: 11-15-2012
Posts: 14
From: Mississippi
A lot ask how to do it, here's my method. Time, 30 minutes.
HHR Oil Change
This is on the 2006 2.2 motor. But should be the same for the 2.4. This is literally the easiest oil change I have ever done.
This oil had 6374 miles on it. The OLM was at 15%. This is what I do for MY oil changes, not yours. YMMV
Parts needed
A method of lifting the vehicle (ramps or stands)
5 quarts 5w-30 oil (your choice)
1 Filter (your choice)
15mm socket for the drain plug
32mm socket for the filter cap (yes there is an SAE socket for the cap, but I preferred the metric), extension is very helpful.
Drain pan
Rags
First of all, get the vehicle up in the air.
(The drips on the ground are from the A/C)
Locate drain plug under vehicle. It is on the passenger side. It take a 15mm socket. Place drain pan under before taking the bolt out.
Once the oil is drained, put the plug back in. If you are using the old plug, I recommend wiping it down good. If you are using a new plug, be sure it has the correct gasket/washer. Then move the drain pan forward some. The position of the filter is great, you probably don’t need the drain pan there, but better safe than sorry.
Using the 32mm socket and extension, loosen the top of the oil filter cap. Once your “crack” the seal, you can unscrew the rest by hand. The filter comes out with the cap, they snap together.
Here is look into the canister with the filter out.
Place a rag under the filter and lift it out. I set mine on the drain pan so it can drain. Here is a shot of the two filters.
I know a lot of people get “alarmed” at the wrinkles in the old filter. Just remember that this filter has had oil flowing through it. You probably just never noticed it before since most filters you can’t see the elements inside.
Wipe the base of the cap off to make sure you didn’t get any dirt on it. Snap the new filter onto the cap and reinstall. You can tighten mostly by hand. I give it a good snug at the end to make sure it’s tight.
Wipe up any excess oil that may have dripped.
Take off the filler cap and put in 5 quarts of oil. You may want to only put in 4.5 quarts at first just in case you didn’t get a full drain. Then you can top off.
Start it up and let it run for a minute or two while you check for any leaks. If no leaks, pull down off the ramps/stands. Shut it down. After you clean up your tools and put things away. Check the oil level again. Top off as needed.
Have a beer.
HHR Oil Change
This is on the 2006 2.2 motor. But should be the same for the 2.4. This is literally the easiest oil change I have ever done.
This oil had 6374 miles on it. The OLM was at 15%. This is what I do for MY oil changes, not yours. YMMV
Parts needed
A method of lifting the vehicle (ramps or stands)
5 quarts 5w-30 oil (your choice)
1 Filter (your choice)
15mm socket for the drain plug
32mm socket for the filter cap (yes there is an SAE socket for the cap, but I preferred the metric), extension is very helpful.
Drain pan
Rags
First of all, get the vehicle up in the air.
(The drips on the ground are from the A/C)
Locate drain plug under vehicle. It is on the passenger side. It take a 15mm socket. Place drain pan under before taking the bolt out.
Once the oil is drained, put the plug back in. If you are using the old plug, I recommend wiping it down good. If you are using a new plug, be sure it has the correct gasket/washer. Then move the drain pan forward some. The position of the filter is great, you probably don’t need the drain pan there, but better safe than sorry.
Using the 32mm socket and extension, loosen the top of the oil filter cap. Once your “crack” the seal, you can unscrew the rest by hand. The filter comes out with the cap, they snap together.
Here is look into the canister with the filter out.
Place a rag under the filter and lift it out. I set mine on the drain pan so it can drain. Here is a shot of the two filters.
I know a lot of people get “alarmed” at the wrinkles in the old filter. Just remember that this filter has had oil flowing through it. You probably just never noticed it before since most filters you can’t see the elements inside.
Wipe the base of the cap off to make sure you didn’t get any dirt on it. Snap the new filter onto the cap and reinstall. You can tighten mostly by hand. I give it a good snug at the end to make sure it’s tight.
Wipe up any excess oil that may have dripped.
Take off the filler cap and put in 5 quarts of oil. You may want to only put in 4.5 quarts at first just in case you didn’t get a full drain. Then you can top off.
Start it up and let it run for a minute or two while you check for any leaks. If no leaks, pull down off the ramps/stands. Shut it down. After you clean up your tools and put things away. Check the oil level again. Top off as needed.
Have a beer.