Hub replacement w/ impact wrench
#1
Hub replacement w/ impact wrench
Good morning everyone. I tried looking for a thread about this. Sorry if its been gone over many times before. I'm going to be replacing the front passenger side hub assembly this week on my 07. Is there room to get an impact wrench onto the hub bolts? I already have the 30mm impact socket for the axle bolt, but I'm sure I'll have issues removing the hub bolts due to some corrosion back there. Or is it going to be a pb blast and bloody knuckle type of bolt removal? Thanks.
#2
Yes you can use an impact to remove the bolts. When I changed the wheel bearing on my 08 I had some trouble getting the hub removed from the aluminum spindle.
The road salt corroded them in place and required some beating to get the old ones out.
The road salt corroded them in place and required some beating to get the old ones out.
#3
Yes, gone over hundreds of times. The search at the top center is useful.
Answer: probably no room for impact gun depends, I use a 3 lb hammer on ratchet handle or breaker bar, if needed.
DO NOT use impact to replace the axle nut. 150 lb-ft. most books say.
Answer: probably no room for impact gun depends, I use a 3 lb hammer on ratchet handle or breaker bar, if needed.
DO NOT use impact to replace the axle nut. 150 lb-ft. most books say.
#4
I have the tools to get everything off. I'm pretty much sure I'll be able to get the hub itself out with enough time, I just wasn't sure if an impact wrench would fit behind the hub to remove the 3 bolts. Its a fairly large electric impact wrench.
And sorry about that... I know replacing hubs has been gone hundreds of times. I couldn't find the info about space for an impact behind the hub. It won't be on a lift, I'm doing it in the driveway.
And sorry about that... I know replacing hubs has been gone hundreds of times. I couldn't find the info about space for an impact behind the hub. It won't be on a lift, I'm doing it in the driveway.
#5
I just did this job literally yesterday.
The top bolt you will need a ratchet. the bolts have a factory blue loctite type substance but a 3/8 impact wont have enough umph to crack it loose. The 1/2 is just to be even with swivels and extenstions so just use a ratchet/breaker bar. the other 2 will come off easy.
We used a weighted hammer with a metal end cap, banged on the hub on the side that doesnt have the dust shield, like 4 whacks and breaks loose (1st time doing this, car has 80,000 miles, kept outside) .
Just cleaned a minor amount of rust from the spindle opening and re assembled. Also did sway bar endlinks and new rotors/pads.
Also used a impact on the spindle nut, its fine, just dont be banging away for 2 minutes at full power. A quick *Braph, Braph* and your mint.
If you didnt have access to good tool, good air comp, of lift, can do it just as easy on jack stands and floor, just get creative with a breaker bar, the angle and orientation of the spindle.
The top bolt you will need a ratchet. the bolts have a factory blue loctite type substance but a 3/8 impact wont have enough umph to crack it loose. The 1/2 is just to be even with swivels and extenstions so just use a ratchet/breaker bar. the other 2 will come off easy.
We used a weighted hammer with a metal end cap, banged on the hub on the side that doesnt have the dust shield, like 4 whacks and breaks loose (1st time doing this, car has 80,000 miles, kept outside) .
Just cleaned a minor amount of rust from the spindle opening and re assembled. Also did sway bar endlinks and new rotors/pads.
Also used a impact on the spindle nut, its fine, just dont be banging away for 2 minutes at full power. A quick *Braph, Braph* and your mint.
If you didnt have access to good tool, good air comp, of lift, can do it just as easy on jack stands and floor, just get creative with a breaker bar, the angle and orientation of the spindle.
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