That is from the GM service manual.

The only way you're going to have problems with the threads seizing is if you over torque the plugs or leave them in for 100,000 miles. They might last that long, but it doesn't mean they shouldn't be checked on a regular basis.

 

It's interesting how many people have to make comments about when to change spark plugs or why someone shouldn't change them yet...because I don't remember seeing the OP asking IF he should change them yet...?

 

I'm the OP, and I was considering changing out the plugs w/ new ones since I'm at 37K miles. The tip on antiseize is good to know since I used antiseize EVERY time I changed plugs in my old car (every 3K miles). Now the Sparkplug gap that's in that svc. manual, that's for the 2.0 correct?

Later
Allex

 

The antiseize is a good bit of information. I have always used that and dielectric grease when changing plugs.

 

Wow..3000 mile plug changes....havnt seen that since leaded gas went away and electronic ign came out.....even on carburated motors 20k was minimum unless there was a problem....lead was a great plug fouler and running points wasnt helping.

 

I had a fully built NA motor with a pretty big cam in it. I was a little neurotic when it came to maintenance on my car. Oil changes every 3500 miles, plugs changed 4 times a year, and tranny fluid changed at every 30K miles. This was my DD and when some friends and I pulled the head off at 130K miles, they were surprised at the minimal wear that the head, valvetrain, and cam showed..

 

Yes, that is for the LNF. If you're tuned you can run a smaller gap, around .032.

 

Thanks; good info to know!

BTW where did you get a SVC manual for the SS from? I'd like to have one if it doesn't cost me an arm and both legs lol.

 

I bought mine from helminc.com for $150.

It looks they're a little cheaper here
http://www.gmtechbooks.com/HHR-Service-Manuals-C36.aspx

 

Built motors have their own rules...I was speaking strickly stock or with mild changes.