Grizzly old man

Well lets see here now, So far this summer I replaced both front hubs and wheel bearings, replace both front calipers, rotors and pads, jammed the new ball joint and bushings into the lower control arms, inspected the rear brakes and made sure the auto adjuster hardware is still working.

I probably should have replaced the slave cylinders too but since they are still working fine and not leaking I left them in.

Think that's about all so far. While I had it jacked up to work on the rear drums I noticed the smell of raw gas. When I looked at the fuel line on the drivers side I saw a small damp patch.

Naturally I picked at it and pulled the heat shield material back. I was rewarded with finding about 8" of the steel fuel and return line in very bad shape.

I ordered 25' of 3/8" and 25 feet of 1/4" fuel injection hose and am eagerly awaiting its arrival so I can put that on. I'm not totally sure I will replace it all since its only that short stretch that is actually leaking.

I was advised to just use soft copper water line and brass compression fittings to replace the 'bad' part. Some how I just don't feel right about doing that so it will be the fuel injection rated hose and clamps for me.

What do you guys think should I just use the copper and brass or maybe look for steel line to just patch the leaking part? Your advise as always will be appreciated.

843de

I moved this over to Maintenance for you.

Copper, brass, and steel don't play well with each other, think electrolytic corrosion + gasoline = a very bad day not too far down the road.

Especially since you're in a "Rust Belt" state where they spread road salt and other corrosive agents during the winter, that's what caused your fuel line to corrode through in the classic location for it to happen on HHR's. There's a mud/ice trap right there, and unless you hit the underside of your HHR with a hose during those mid-Winter "nice day" washes, the glop gets carried along there working its way through the fuel line over time.

Rubber fuel lines will get you back on the road in a pinch, but the best way to repair it is to either procure steel fuel line stock and the proper fittings to "patch in" a section.

Or have an experienced technician make up a new section of fuel line and install it.

I'd hate for you to become stranded by a catastrophic fuel leak, or suffer a vehicle fire.

Grizzly old man

Well,... I've gone to NAPA, and AutoZone looking for steel line. Both have steel brake lines but nothing bent and cut to size.

There are a few places on line that make bent and cut to size and shape fuel lines just not for an HHR.

Both of the local shops, that I trust, Have told me the way to go is with the rubber line.

I've replaced steel brake lines before and I do have cheesy little tubing bender but it is not really up to the task of properly bending steel lines.

With my admittedly limited experience with bending steel brake lines I know that I tend to split and kink them pretty badly. Both AutoZone and NAPA tubing have brass connectors on them.

I have managed to run soft copper tubing for water lines quite successfully so I think I could handle that alright. I may just cut out the bad parts and put in rubber then keep an eye on it.

Lucky

Rubber fuel line works well. Make sure you get hose rated for fuel injection.

In the past I have replaced complete fuel lines with rubber without problem just use lots of wire ties to strap in up and keep it away from points of heat.

I would also use fuel injection rated hose clamps. They are made so it won't tare up the rubber like regular worm type clamps do.

843de

Not that long ago, the complete steel fuel line was available from GM, prebent and ready to install. But now it shows, "No Longer Available", well hooray GM.

I'll bow to Lucky's experience here with using rubber lines rated for EFI systems.

I'm just a stickler for OEM if possible, and being that I Auto-Cross two of mine in the local SCCA region, non-OEM on non-braided fuel lines will get you parked by the tech inspectors.

Grizzly old man

Like I said I have ordered the rubber fuel injection rated hose and the proper clamps. I have experience with trying to use the stainless steel worm gear clamps on pressurized rubber hoses in hydraulic systems and know that they will usually just bite into the hose and it will fail eventually.

I'm still looking for a premade fuel line but as you said they are pretty much no longer available. There is a company that makes them for the Chevy Cobalt but they are enough different that I would at the least have to cut it and just use sections of it with rubber in between anyway.

So far I have had the time to check the rest of the tubing and the only rusted part is by the rear wheel the rest seems to be just fine. I have a plan to use some blocks of Lucite to hold the fuel line to the frame of the car where I need to.

I will drill holes of the proper size in the plastic then cut it in two and bolt it to the frame to clamp them down. Should hold nicely. I also have some nice aluminum sheeting to use for heat shield where needed. The stock heat shield stuff is kind of quilted aluminized plastic material. I found a vendor in eBay that has similar material that I may glue to my home made aluminum plate.

That would probably be over kill if I have at least a quarter inch between my heat shield and the hoses.

843de

For those of you reading this and maybe hearing of the fuel line corrosion issues in rust belt states for the first time, here's a former member's HHR which ended up on its side after being rammed by a Mustang back in 2010.

The fuel lines run just in front of the left rear wheel, and it's a bit of a slush and mud trap there, so corrosive elements have all winter to "work" on the lines, so hitting the underside of your ride on above freezing days at a coin-op carwash is a good idea in snow country.



And don't worry, the member's wife was uninjured in this accident except for some bruises and jangled nerves.

hurst2001

X2 lucky replace the fuel line with fuel injection hose were the fuel line rust out in back rear wheel area

Grizzly old man

At the local car wash there are the regular open bays where you get a power washer wand to spray your car with then there is the 'automatic touch less' bay that you drive your car through.

The Touch less bay has a bar mounted on the floor when you first enter it that sprays high pressure soapy water against the bottom of your buggy as you enter to the stop spot.

Through the winter at least once a month I use the touch less bay. I kinda think that's why I have not had a problem with my fuel line rusting out till now.

Sure wish the vendor would hurry up and send my hose soon. The expected delivery date was between 9/15 and 9/31. I do have a tracking number and it has been accepted at the mailing point in California so I just have to wait.

843de

Patience is a virtue, unless your HHR is dribbling gasoline everywhere you go.

Hopefully Snail Mail won't be so snail like in this case.