"The job ain't done till ya bleed on it" Is our family credo.

 

Our family credo is "Hey Y'all Watch This!", followed by the funeral services.

 

And now your HHR has you DNA coursing through its fluid lines!!!
It's alive , it's alive

Young Frankenstein Gene Wilder it's alive my creation is alive gif - PandaWhale

 

As I've said many times my dad was a mechanic for most of his life. When a mechanic job ended for him he would try other things but almost always would go back to being a mechanic again. He ran heavy equipment building roads and highways. He learned to be a brick layer and do other cement work, he worked as a surveyor, and spent several years as a machinist too.

He never got into blacksmithing like I did but was interested in what I was doing. He bled on most of the jobs he did too.

He taught me a lot in the relatively short time I got to be with him on this planet and I still miss him a lot. Its been 43 years since he died but I still hear him in my head sometimes.

 

Grizzly, a few questions.

Half of my entire fuel line is rusted and is leaking in the same location as https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/prob...leaking-54878/. Looking to replace with SAE 30R9 line based on your guide.

It sounds like you spliced the line in instead of replacing the entire thing. Which size did you wind up using? If I do replace a majority of the line, should I just keep the very ends and their fittings so I can easily screw them on again? And you used zip-ties and injection-rated hose clamps to bridge the two materials? Do the replacement lines fit in the vehicle-affixed clamps easily?

I'll probably bend my own aluminum heat shield with the fuel running so close to the exhaust.

Sorry for all the questions, I did try to read all you posted, but still had some questions.

 

aboard cmart2237!

In case Grizzly doesn't get around to reading this for a few days, you can send him a Private Message by clicking on his username and a Drop-Down menu will appear.

It gives you the option to send him a message, and I'm sure he'll get back to you quickly, he's a great guy and very knowledgeable too.

 

I put a link in my other reply, you might read that.

You will need a length of 3/8" hose, for the pressure line, and another of 1/4" for the return line. I was able to replace the rusted lines with around 6' {each}of the rubber hoses.

You need a special tool to remove the fuel line from the gas tank. My younger brother has such a tool that we used but you can 'rent' one from AutoZone {basically you buy the tool, use it and return it and get most of your money back} once the tubing is loose from the tank pick a spot to use a regular tubing cutter and cut several inches off.

Like I said I use Vaseline to help push the hose several inches onto the steel where you cut it. I remove the rusty tubing and replaced it with the fuel line rated hose. Since I had lots of the special hose clamps I use two at each of my splices.

I used fuel injection rated hose I got from a vendor on eBay and fuel injection rated hose clamps as well. The regular worm drive steel hose clamps tend to bite into the rubber and that can cause problems. I bought a package of 4 of these special hose clamps at AutoZone before I ordered the hose on eBay, but they also had both sizes of the special clamps on eBay so I ordered another set for the 1/4" hose I already had some for the 3/8" hose but ordered more anyway.

I doubt you could get even 1/2" wide zip ties to keep the pressure hose together so use the fuel line rated hose clamps. I only used zip ties to hold the fuel line up fairly close to the body of the car so it wouldn't get fouled in the suspension. The rubber is naturally not as ridged as the steel line is and tended to flop around a lot.

The zip ties help to keep it from doing that.

 

Thanks for the info, Grizzly. I'll get to ordering the supplies.

 

Thanks for the quick reply Grizzly, I knew you'd pop up shortly.