Lower Billet Grille Problem
07-25-2013, 07:50 PM
#53
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Join Date: 11-04-2012
Location: Dedham Maine
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07-29-2013, 02:05 PM
#55
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Join Date: 12-04-2011
Location: El Paso, TX
Posts: 374
I spent a while the other night prepping the diagram, but since I originally did this in Photoshop, when I started putting the measurements on it, they didn't add up correctly. So I uploaded the template instead. I actually traced the pattern onto vellum directly on my monitor.
The red lines are the bends to jog the lower portion outward to be behind the supports in the grille; measure from the screw hole to the supports to get the distance (I think it was around 5/8", which made the bends about 27 degrees). I ended up eyeballing the screw hole location on the flange, so I don't have measurements for that.
On my billet grille the area the screw goes through is backset a bit. Make sure to bend the flange so that its forward face is about 1/32" behind the mating edge.
The notch in the upper half fits over the upturned lip of the bottom of the bumper support. It may need to be widened rearward to ensure a correct fit and enough room to adjust the grille into a suitable position.
The brackets bolt to the outboard sides of the vertical supports inside the bumper structure.
The upper hole on the passenger side should be moved about 1/8" forward (ie, to the right in the template). I originally did all my measuring on the driver's side, and didn't discover the discrepancy until the test fittings.
The black bar is for scale. If you can print it to the correct physical size, you can simply trace/transfer it onto the stock. I used 3 inch steel, 1/8" thick (the blue area). Make a cardboard version first in case the adjustments I made from the test fittings aren't correct (I made these in April, so I don't remember all the details).
Those with back problems should be aware of working in this area. There is no position from which you can actually see what you're doing in there.
The red lines are the bends to jog the lower portion outward to be behind the supports in the grille; measure from the screw hole to the supports to get the distance (I think it was around 5/8", which made the bends about 27 degrees). I ended up eyeballing the screw hole location on the flange, so I don't have measurements for that.
On my billet grille the area the screw goes through is backset a bit. Make sure to bend the flange so that its forward face is about 1/32" behind the mating edge.
The notch in the upper half fits over the upturned lip of the bottom of the bumper support. It may need to be widened rearward to ensure a correct fit and enough room to adjust the grille into a suitable position.
The brackets bolt to the outboard sides of the vertical supports inside the bumper structure.
The upper hole on the passenger side should be moved about 1/8" forward (ie, to the right in the template). I originally did all my measuring on the driver's side, and didn't discover the discrepancy until the test fittings.
The black bar is for scale. If you can print it to the correct physical size, you can simply trace/transfer it onto the stock. I used 3 inch steel, 1/8" thick (the blue area). Make a cardboard version first in case the adjustments I made from the test fittings aren't correct (I made these in April, so I don't remember all the details).
Those with back problems should be aware of working in this area. There is no position from which you can actually see what you're doing in there.
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