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All good advice.

The one thing that jumps out at me in your explanation is the statement that when cranking in sounds whiny.

I hope I'm wrong but if the engine jumps time it can be described as that.

If the timing chain did jump you should get a trouble code for cam/crank correlation.

 

I assume the auto-zone friend knows how to use the code reader, but if not...

Make sure the key is in the ignition and turned to the on position.
Not off, not accessory, not start, but ON.

If it's not, the code reader will just keep searching for a while and then finally give up returning no codes, or will say could not connect.

Also, it sounds like you do not have a check engine light at all, which is why the code reader can not find anything.

All the lights including the check engine light illuminate on the dash before the car is started, so with out a code to go off of...

You have to check if your getting Fuel, Air, and Spark.

Since our cars have an ignition coil on every cylinder most likely you won't have a problem with spark. But you could still have a problem with the battery, the auto-zone guy can probably check that for you too.

If you were having a problem with air, the car can run rough or not stay running for very long, check to see if there is a really clogged air filter or any obstruction blocking the intake, which would deprive the engines ability to breathe.

Your fuel pump could have gone out, making your engine incapable of getting the fuel to run.

Lastly, it could be a weak starter that needs replacing, or even the CPU could be preventing it from being started, needing a reprogramming from the dealer.

All guesses like stated previously, but check all those things before getting it towed. :)

 

Odds are, it's your battery.
Remove it, bring it to autozone, have your friend test it, recharge it and possibly replace it.

It's located in the trunk(hatch) under the floor, not in the engine compartment.

Let us know if that works.

If that did work, your not out of the woods yet, put the new or fully charged battery back in and drive it back to autozone once it starts and have them check your alternator.

 

According to her first posting, she supposedly has just had a new battery installed. She also says it turns over fine with the starter, but just does not start.

 

Post #1 says "it cranks". Then, post #7 says "Now when I try to start security light and check engine light and abs lights come on and it won't even crank"

Sounds like she may have run down the battery trying to start it. Time to check and/or charge the battery as gio89kid suggested.

 

X3,497,670 new battery needed

 

It's a new battery - it just needs a charge. She really needs to get it to a shop rather than messing with it at home.

 

When you remove the battery, DO NOT CLOSE THE HATCH!!! It locks mechanically and unlocks electrically. NO battery....no open. It's somewhat a difficult process to mechanically open it. You have enough problems right now.

 

Well if it's a new battery then it's sounding like an alternator problem.

Hard starting before and no start now. Dead battery and alternator not keeping it charged.

Take battery out, get it charged, put it back in, start car and take to autozone to get alternator checked.

Also, I didn't know that about the hatch, very interesting. I'll be sure to not close that with the battery removed.

If doing all that FREE stuff doesn't work. We can continue from there.

And it could still be a low battery problem when the engine turns over and still doesn't start.

Just to be clear...
When the car did turn over was it very fast or very sluggish?

As for the spike in RPMs and odd performance, could also be a case of electronics going crazy with limited power, since you parked it and then it now can't start.

Please get back to us :)

 

a new battery can still be a dead battery, they don't come from the factory fully charged!!
we've seen it before here, a defective battery is also possible