u could have done it your self for 175. using your orig part sending it too them they have fast return



they are very easy to remove 4 small torx and the large plug and the brain pulls right off the valve and no they don't leak so need to bleed brakes , takes about 5 mint to remove

 

Not a mechanic and it's my only car so I can't have it off line for a week.
Appreciate all the responses and advice.
Thx.

 

Hopefully simple question. My wife’s car has controller pn# 20777328, was looking thru a local pick and pull and found one with the same part number on it. Still need to be coded by the dealer once installed? She has ABS, Traction, and Brake light on. They have been on for about 2 years now and the car drives fine with out any issues, so I haven’t been on a real push to fix it. I’ve replaced hubs, and bee looking for a replacement module, and finally found one. I’m assuming replacement is straight forward, swap, then bleed brake system?

 

Looking back thru this thread, the part must be relearned to your vin number

 

OK I give up....how do you remove this electrical connection from the ABS module? I have the cover flipped up but can't seem to force the connector off....

 

Looks like along the wire harness connector there’s clips to hold the wires together

By that wire harness

I can look at mine tomorrow morning in the daylight.

 

Its not really visable unless you remove the ABS module....I just ordered a used one on ebay that has the connector attached (wires were clipped off) so I will probably be able to figure it out once I have the used one of the bench

the control portion and valve portion of the used one have identical numbers to the ABS unit that I am replacing but I assume I would have to have it reprogrammed anyhow per discussion above UNLESS I just swap out the valve portion.

 

The VIN/serial number has nothing to do with part numbers.

 

The EBCM does need to be vin matched to the car, the rebuild link company rebuilds your unit, so once you install that used part , send off your unit for rebuilding, it’s going be programmed to your car, and fresh as a daisy! 🌼

 

Sorry, but are you saying that even if I keep the current EBCM but swap the ABS hydraulic control unit (HCU, aka Hydraulic Modulator, Valve Block, or Pump Assembly) with one that works I still need to get ECBM reprogrammed?

Also if I want to get my current ABS (which consists of two major components EBCM + HCU) rebuilt and reprogrammed where exactly do you recommend that I send it?

For what its worth here is what chatgpt says regarding programming"Here’s the clear answer for your Chevy HHR (and most GM vehicles of that era):

✅ If you replace only the HCU (Hydraulic Control Unit)

You do NOT need to reprogram or reflash the EBCM (Electronic Brake Control Module).

Here’s why:

• The HCU is purely a hydraulic/mechanical assembly — it contains solenoid valves, pump, and passages for brake fluid, but no software, no VIN, and no calibration data.
  
• All the logic and coding live inside the EBCM (the black plastic electronic module bolted to the side of the HCU).
  
• As long as you reuse your original EBCM, it keeps all its programming and vehicle-specific data.