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AC still not working after thermostat change

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Old Jun 13, 2017 | 03:41 PM
  #11  
AntoniusBlock's Avatar
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Awesome stuff guys, thanks!

I made sure there is no more air or top off needed. So not that.

I'm thinking it is likely the compressor or a leak of freon in the AC system. However, since the thing is not giving me any codes... I'd take my bet on the compressor.

The diode would be awesome if it is that, do you know where I can locate it within the vehicle? It would need checking with a multi ohms right?


I'm due an oil change, so I think I'll take it to midas/pep boys to get it changed and that way use their lift to see if there is any visible damage to the AC line underneath.
Old Jun 13, 2017 | 03:46 PM
  #12  
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I only see 3 possible culprits left:

1- Freon leak
2- Diode
3- Compressor

I'm hoping diode... probably cheapest... yet least likely. I haven't heard of many diodes dying (I have had compressors and Freon leak issues in the past (other cards))

Thanks for all the help everyone. If it is the Compressor or diode and I end up doing it myself, I'll be sure to document it for the forum.
Old Jun 13, 2017 | 04:14 PM
  #13  
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4. pressure switch
Old Jun 13, 2017 | 04:23 PM
  #14  
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Pressure switch... yeap, that's another possible culprit.

I'll be reading into how to find and test the two cheap ones: Diode and Pressure switch.

Tomorrow I'll take her in for an oil change. Hopefully the guys there will let me give her a compression test on freon.

If not freon, that will limit it down.

Again, thanks guys, really appreciate the help.
Old Jun 13, 2017 | 05:31 PM
  #15  
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Pressure switch is screwed into the freon tubing. As it has a valve so you don't lose gas.
diode is in the underhood fuse box position #9.

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Last edited by donbrew; Jun 13, 2017 at 07:35 PM.
Old Jun 13, 2017 | 06:57 PM
  #16  
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Here's a picture of the compressor. The pressure switch is the silver thing in the side of the red circle.
This is a picture of my SS but the regular HHR's will have the same compressor layout.
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Old Jun 13, 2017 | 08:50 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by firemangeorge
Here's a picture of the compressor. The pressure switch is the silver thing in the side of the red circle.
This is a picture of my SS but the regular HHR's will have the same compressor layout.
Attachment 21873
.......that is the cleanest most beautiful thing I've ever seen
Old Jun 13, 2017 | 09:49 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by aradmahogany
.......that is the cleanest most beautiful thing I've ever seen
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Old Jun 13, 2017 | 10:29 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by donbrew
As it has a valve so you don't lose gas.


Attachment 21871
I never realized that. TheMoreYouKnow.gif
Old Jun 14, 2017 | 03:22 PM
  #20  
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3 points:

1- Wow... that is the cleanest engine compartment EVER! Holy cow... what do you do to that thing to make it look so... yummy.

2- Thank you all for the great tips.

3- I found it. So I took it for an oil change/tire rotation today.

I asked the guys at the shop if they would do me a solid and check refrigerant compression level.

Sure enough, I was low on refrigerant.

So that is why the compressor clutch wasn't engaging.

The guy there filled her up with refrigerant. I asked the guy if I needed to find and patch the leak, the guy said if it takes more than a few months to lose the coolant, might as well just fill her up every now and then (like one would do with an old car that burns or leaks some oil)

However, after driving home, the coolness of the AC wasn't very strong.

So now I'm thinking of getting a UV dye, I found one on amazon for $32 + a 2 way Manifold Gauge Set for $65. This way I can find the leak, fix it, and change out the valves while I'm at it, they only cost $5/each.

I know I shouldn't use the 'sealant' kits. But I don't see why I should pay a shop $120+ for a simple dye when I can get the gauge set and dye for less.

What do you all think?



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