Vin specific engine off ebay or wherever is encouraged - what exactly does that mean?
Do I need to buy the ECM or Computer specific to the used 2.2 engine I buy or can I use what I currently have?
Is there a write up on here for engine changeout?
Give me words of any advice y or tips you might have?

Just so you know I am not expecting to do this overnight. Maybe over the course of a month or two.. I have my other car up and running now..

 

Vin specific, means your vin falls into the range of vin’s that engine fits.
Your ECM will work, you’re need to have the crankshaft position sensor relearned.
Most EBay yards are good with matching up your info to their used engine.
There are many threads about this subject , search engine swaps
So you have a 2011 2.2, which will have VVT, so ensure you communicate this to the seller , also your transmission type

Here is an example

2011 Chevrolet HHR 2.2L Engine Motor 4cyl OEM 75K Miles (LKQ~162562851) | eBay

 

Got a great deal on Vin W 8th digit engine off ebay.. $650.00 + $200 shipping... 54K miles. Clean engine!
Appears to be plug & play.. Will blue masking tape label every connector when doing the install. Im still driving the HHR around, its like a milkshake in there.. Car has great acceleration with zero misfiring which moreso confirms that its a cracked water jacket somewhere in the block.. I just keep adding water.. believe the head is fine on current engine. Im in SW Florida, if anyone closeby would like to help and trigger this swap pm me. Questions: Elaborate on relearning crank and are there any special tools Im going to need other than cherry picker and asst rachets & wrenches? Im pulling the engine from the top. Where can I find torque values for all the various bolts
Thanks

 

Pulling the engine from the top is a pain in the arse. GM designed it to be pulled from the bottom via dropping the engine cradle.

 

Torque , some are here

https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-...e-items-54648/

 

With a VVT engine the crankshaft sensor variation must be learned by the ECM. That requires a Tech2 or equivalent. You will initially have a CEL for P0315 until it is done.

If there was a cracked water jacket the crankcase would be full of coolant. Compression test and coolant pressure test are pretty easy to do. Along with checking things like a pin hole on the rubber plug on the t-stat housing and the pressure cap. In those cases the coolant escapes as steam with no evidence left behind.

 

Lots of great info- Thx
Need a dose of Whopper chiming in? Anything from the whopp?

 

I guess Whopper MIA..
ANYWAY, I started my removal of the engine for my swap out..
My hoses and radiator is full of milky way nougart.
Any recommendations on how to clean out the radiator? As I disconnect everything and get into this - its looking more like a top pull.. I will elaborate further as I learn more but Im just not seeing why anyone would want to go all the extra steps in removing the tranny and cradle included with block from the bottom. I can still go either way yet... But, easier seems to be pulling from top..

 

Actually, if you just remove the top 6 nuts holding the struts the entire cradle will drop without having to pull the axles. If you have a lift easy-peasy.

Just flushing the rad should do it.