Am I overheating?
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: 10-19-2013
Posts: 419
From: Dallas Texas
So this time the defroster read 95°, I then reved the engine to 2500 RPMs and the defrost got 127°. Again the head got 220° and I killed the engine. I added about a cup of coolant, but I think that is because of coolant that splashed out onto the ground. What am I doing wrong?
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: 10-19-2013
Posts: 419
From: Dallas Texas
Yes, the defroster temp was so cold that it was as if the A/C compressor was engaged. The light on the big left dial (temp control) was Off. Yes the fan comes on when the A/C is turned on or when temp reaches 217°.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: 10-19-2013
Posts: 419
From: Dallas Texas
Tried it again, Defrost temp hit 145° this time. I ran it 3000 RPM's til dash temp hit 220° and killed it. I let it cool a few seconds, check the temp in the radiator cap, it was 211°, the temp on the dash read 196°.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: 10-19-2013
Posts: 419
From: Dallas Texas
UPDATE:
Replaced the water pump with a new AC DELCO water pump
Replaced the thermostat with a new AC DELCO thermostat
Replaced the radiator hoses with AC DELCO radiator hoses
Replaced the radiator with a new AC DELCO radiator
Replaced the temperature sensor
I put all three thermostats in a pot of water on the stove, heated it up. All three thermostats opened as it hit 190, was checking with a digital BBQ thermometer.
The upper radiator hose gets hot, the lower radiator hose stays cold. The mechanic suggests that the engine is bad. I am not sure what can possible go bad in an engine that would cause it to over heat.
I remove the thermostat and it it never gets hotter than 145. Of course I can not run an ecotec very long without a thermostat or it will ---.
Things I have not tried
Vacuum the coolant system and add coolant
checked exhaust for a blockage
Check the head passages for blockages.
Replaced the water pump with a new AC DELCO water pump
Replaced the thermostat with a new AC DELCO thermostat
Replaced the radiator hoses with AC DELCO radiator hoses
Replaced the radiator with a new AC DELCO radiator
Replaced the temperature sensor
I put all three thermostats in a pot of water on the stove, heated it up. All three thermostats opened as it hit 190, was checking with a digital BBQ thermometer.
The upper radiator hose gets hot, the lower radiator hose stays cold. The mechanic suggests that the engine is bad. I am not sure what can possible go bad in an engine that would cause it to over heat.
I remove the thermostat and it it never gets hotter than 145. Of course I can not run an ecotec very long without a thermostat or it will ---.
Things I have not tried
Vacuum the coolant system and add coolant
checked exhaust for a blockage
Check the head passages for blockages.
Moderator
Joined: 01-23-2009
Posts: 26,533
From: Fredericksburg,VA
Evidently you got 190 t-stats. Should open at 180, like we said several pages ago. Like on page #1:
The function of the T-stat is to keep the engine temp UP, not cool it down. If you put a 190F T-stat in the lowest the temp will ever get is 190F, usually about 10 degrees more. That's why I suspect the wrong T-stat.
Last edited by donbrew; May 21, 2015 at 04:50 PM.
Moderator
Joined: 01-23-2009
Posts: 26,533
From: Fredericksburg,VA
I suggest you find a mechanic that knows what he/she is doing.
Hot coolant enters the radiator at the top then flows to the t-stat, there is a bypass on the t-stat housing that allows some flow to got to the heater core at all times. The coolant temp is measured at the outlet side of the t-stat.
If there is a blockage, it is in the radiator. As somebody pointed out, some people have failed to remove the plugs on the radiator inlet and outlet. Defective new radiators are not unknown. Your first post has the indicators of a 190F t-stat. Your latest boiling test indicates 190F t-stat. You claimed that the heat does work, I think, therefore there is flow.
coolant flow:
engine block > top radiator > bottom radiator> t-stat > temp sensor > water pump > engine block
with a partial detour from bottom radiator > heater core > water pump through a smaller diameter hose (probably about 1/4 or less).
Hot coolant enters the radiator at the top then flows to the t-stat, there is a bypass on the t-stat housing that allows some flow to got to the heater core at all times. The coolant temp is measured at the outlet side of the t-stat.
If there is a blockage, it is in the radiator. As somebody pointed out, some people have failed to remove the plugs on the radiator inlet and outlet. Defective new radiators are not unknown. Your first post has the indicators of a 190F t-stat. Your latest boiling test indicates 190F t-stat. You claimed that the heat does work, I think, therefore there is flow.
coolant flow:
engine block > top radiator > bottom radiator> t-stat > temp sensor > water pump > engine block
with a partial detour from bottom radiator > heater core > water pump through a smaller diameter hose (probably about 1/4 or less).
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: 10-19-2013
Posts: 419
From: Dallas Texas
I suggest you find a mechanic that knows what he/she is doing.
Hot coolant enters the radiator at the top then flows to the t-stat, there is a bypass on the t-stat housing that allows some flow to got to the heater core at all times. The coolant temp is measured at the outlet side of the t-stat.
If there is a blockage, it is in the radiator. As somebody pointed out, some people have failed to remove the plugs on the radiator inlet and outlet. Defective new radiators are not unknown. Your first post has the indicators of a 190F t-stat. Your latest boiling test indicates 190F t-stat. You claimed that the heat does work, I think, therefore there is flow.
coolant flow:
engine block > top radiator > bottom radiator> t-stat > temp sensor > water pump > engine block
with a partial detour from bottom radiator > heater core > water pump through a smaller diameter hose (probably about 1/4 or less).
Hot coolant enters the radiator at the top then flows to the t-stat, there is a bypass on the t-stat housing that allows some flow to got to the heater core at all times. The coolant temp is measured at the outlet side of the t-stat.
If there is a blockage, it is in the radiator. As somebody pointed out, some people have failed to remove the plugs on the radiator inlet and outlet. Defective new radiators are not unknown. Your first post has the indicators of a 190F t-stat. Your latest boiling test indicates 190F t-stat. You claimed that the heat does work, I think, therefore there is flow.
coolant flow:
engine block > top radiator > bottom radiator> t-stat > temp sensor > water pump > engine block
with a partial detour from bottom radiator > heater core > water pump through a smaller diameter hose (probably about 1/4 or less).
Platinum Member
Joined: 12-06-2009
Posts: 11,721
From: Alabama
