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Am I overheating?

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Old Apr 20, 2015 | 09:09 PM
  #51  
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From: Dallas Texas
Originally Posted by firemangeorge
Why? Your very 1st post says you have a new radiator.

So. I'm going way out on limb here but I recall a post or thread from way back. Seems an owner installed a new radiator but his car still over heated. Come to find out, he had forgotten to take off the protective shipping cap on one of the radiator outlets when he installed it. Of course the coolant could not flow through the system because of this.

I know. It's a long shot, but......................
Yup I bought the HHR from a friend who tells me he had just put a new radiator in it. Since I did not install it myself, there was a tad bit of doubt or as you said, it could be installed wrong. I figured it was easy, so I pulled it completely out so I could inspect the water passages. They look pristine.
Old Apr 20, 2015 | 09:12 PM
  #52  
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So tomorrow I am gonna try the burping thing again. I'll get real serious this time. Also the temp sensor was a good idea, maybe it is just wrong and I do have the temp sensor off the old engine. If all else fails, I am changing out the water pump.
Old Apr 21, 2015 | 04:22 PM
  #53  
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I think I should be seeing water flow thru the radiator cap tee at 200°. I see nothing, but vibrating water. I think at this point I have a bad water pump.
Old Apr 21, 2015 | 10:16 PM
  #54  
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And the question is, why was the rad replaced by your friend? Was he having overheating problems?

Before you replace the water pump, you can verify by seeing if the heater is putting out heat once it is warmed up. Also by feeling the heater, rad hoses and rad, to see if they warm up once the thermostat opens up.
Old Apr 23, 2015 | 11:29 AM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by whopper
And the question is, why was the rad replaced by your friend? Was he having overheating problems?

Before you replace the water pump, you can verify by seeing if the heater is putting out heat once it is warmed up. Also by feeling the heater, rad hoses and rad, to see if they warm up once the thermostat opens up.
Yes, he blew a head gasket or something and had water in the oil. He spent $1800 getting head redone, $400 at dealership for a new waterpump and then to the radiator shop for a new radiator. All this and it was still not right. I bought it from him and swapped out the engine from one I bought from a junkyard. The heater blows warm, not crazy hot but warm.
Old Apr 23, 2015 | 11:32 AM
  #56  
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This is the radiator cap removed and the temp reads 205°. I think I should be seeing flow at this point in which I do not.
Old Apr 23, 2015 | 12:02 PM
  #57  
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So you have the new water pump but in your old engine. But both engines show the same problem?
Have you tried the park on a hill with the front end high to burp out any air?
I don't see fluid movement in my 07 either and the heater blows very hot air the temp is a consistent 180 to 190 all day long!
Old Apr 23, 2015 | 12:37 PM
  #58  
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I'm also wondering here - you never answered whether the heater actually put out heat. If not, you have a bubble. I have been there and done that, and it's a fairly easy thing to check. Let us know.

If it gets hot enough, the bubble could open up(collapse), but you could also lose your gaskets in the process.

Burp it properly. And, let's hope that your next post shows a 192* temp, or similar.
Old Apr 24, 2015 | 11:57 AM
  #59  
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My driveway has a 9° slope to it. Is this high enough? As the temp was in the 190's, the heater was blowing 97°, but then the defroster got cold, I mean really really cold. It is about 75° outside and the defroster was blowing in the mid 60's. I ran the temp up to 220°, in which the coolant inside the radiator cap was 210°. I then killed it in fear of getting it any hotter.

I might jack it up and try again.
Old Apr 24, 2015 | 12:04 PM
  #60  
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If your defroster was blowing air in the 60F range as really cold as you say when it's 75F outside, turn off your A/C. Do your fans come on when the A/C is on?



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