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Automatic Transmission Question

Old Sep 30, 2018 | 12:50 PM
  #1  
daBULL2855's Avatar
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Automatic Transmission Question

My situation isn't exactly like others on here. The yellow light with lock through it hasn't been on since first had issue. Several months back it acted like I put it in Neutral while driving. When I went to get it the next day, I decided to try it and it worked fine. Decided to sell. Yesterday buyer picked up and called me after driving about five miles saying transmission went out. When I picked up I noticed the light on the dash. I have seen several posts here with potential resolutions, but don't know what to problem solve first? Any advice is greatly appreciated.
Old Sep 30, 2018 | 01:51 PM
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Hi daBULL, to the forums!!

The first thing to do is check for OBD2 codes. Is the Check Engine Light on? You should also have the battery load tested.
Old Sep 30, 2018 | 02:00 PM
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A bad battery will cause the security system to activate. Odd that you didn't note key stuck in ignition.

I would look at the shift lever-cable connection. Without further information I wouldn't guess. Seems to be a lot missing from the story.
Old Sep 30, 2018 | 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by RJ_RS_SS_350
Hi daBULL, to the forums!!

The first thing to do is check for OBD2 codes. Is the Check Engine Light on? You should also have the battery load tested.
Thank you for your advice...
Old Sep 30, 2018 | 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by donbrew
A bad battery will cause the security system to activate. Odd that you didn't note key stuck in ignition.

I would look at the shift lever-cable connection. Without further information I wouldn't guess. Seems to be a lot missing from the story.
Thanks... My key did not get stuck in the ignition. That's one of the things I mentioned that made my scenario a little different than others I read. As far as a lot missing from the story, I just didn't want my initial post/question to be super lengthy. The only other things I can think of is I used a portable jumpstart system to get it to start. Probably started/killed total of 3-4 times. We used the under the hood location. Never used actual battery in back. I test drove before buyer left and everything seemed ok. Like I mentioned, the lock light didn't come on until they drove about five miles. Thanks again...
Old Sep 30, 2018 | 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by daBULL2855
Thank you for your advice...
Sorry, I just noticed where you asked if check engine light is on. No. The only light illuminated is the one. (Yellow car with lock through it located all the way to the left side of instrument panel). Thanks again...
Old Sep 30, 2018 | 04:27 PM
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Are you using the same key as always? With the + in a circle and programmed.
Where did you hook the jump negative cable? The bolt on the strut tower?
When and why was the jump start?
Has the battery been checked? It needs to be more than 12.5 volts.
Any work on the car?
Any after market electronics? Remote start, radio etc?
OnStar been fiddled with in any way?
Old Sep 30, 2018 | 05:45 PM
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daBULL2855's Avatar
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Originally Posted by donbrew
Are you using the same key as always? With the + in a circle and programmed.
Where did you hook the jump negative cable? The bolt on the strut tower?
When and why was the jump start?
Has the battery been checked? It needs to be more than 12.5 volts.
Any work on the car?
Any after market electronics? Remote start, radio etc?
OnStar been fiddled with in any way?
Yes-same key (has +/circle); yes-only to bolt on strut tower; car has been sitting for a couple months w/o being started, jumped 3-4 times total yesterday(before light came on); battery hasn't been checked yet (I'm picking it up tomorrow); no after market parts; OnStar not messed with... I appreciate the additional information.
Old Sep 30, 2018 | 07:14 PM
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I’d say dead battery, either replace it , or give the new owner a couple of bucks towards a new one!
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