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Cabin (spare)Fuse box layout

Old Mar 30, 2017 | 03:28 PM
  #1  
haX0r's Avatar
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From: gitmo-nation
Cabin (spare)Fuse box layout

Has anyone done a layout of the spare fuses?
ie: which are bat/acc/ignition?

Looking for a ACC and Ignition. I poked about and not sure I believe my cursory results that BAT and ACC are there but no Ignition. Need to run a few relays.

2006 HHR LT.
Old Mar 30, 2017 | 03:57 PM
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Are you looking to add a circuit?

Do you mean more information than your Owner Manual provides?

If you have a VOM or a test light it would be easy to probe the "spare" fuse spaces.

I am pretty sure that the RAP relay feeds the 3 spare fuses 12,14 &21; that would make them ign.

You could add a few more words to make it easier to answer.

Does this help?
Cabin (spare)Fuse box layout-insidef.png

Last edited by donbrew; Mar 30, 2017 at 04:36 PM.
Old Apr 1, 2017 | 11:45 AM
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Thanks.
I do have that. And yes I'm adding in circuits (have 200w of solar panel and a pair of deep cycle batteries)
But that legend doesn't show if the spares are BAT, ACC or IGNITION. I poked a bit and only saw that the spares were BAT and ACC. The fat pink cable coming into the face of the fuse panel is IGN, but looking for a more elegant and safer tap.

I need to control a relay for when the engine is on (IGN), that the house and starter batteries are not 'charged' by both the alternator and the panels at the same time (its not a good idea to have 2 chargers on the same batteries(s) at the same time) but use the NC contact to allow the panels to also charge the starter battery when engine is off. I do have an battery isolator relay, but it doesn't work in the manner I described, just there to prevent draining down the starter battery.

And a ACC fired relay to power the HAM radio (and a few other items)
Old Apr 1, 2017 | 12:02 PM
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FWIW, my understanding is that the charging system is just strong enough to power the vehicle. Tasking it with much more than that may not give satisfactory results.
Old Apr 1, 2017 | 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by RJ_RS_SS_350
FWIW, my understanding is that the charging system is just strong enough to power the vehicle. Tasking it with much more than that may not give satisfactory results.
You have my system backwards. I'm blocking the alternator from charging the house batteries, but allowing the solar to charge the starter battery. I'm just avoiding 2 charging system on same battery at same time.
Old Apr 1, 2017 | 12:59 PM
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Might be easier to go underhood. The inside fuse box is actually the BCM.

If you need wiring diagrams let me know, way to complicated to post.

But you do want the alternator to continue functioning?
Old Apr 1, 2017 | 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by haX0r
You have my system backwards. I'm blocking the alternator from charging the house batteries, but allowing the solar to charge the starter battery. I'm just avoiding 2 charging system on same battery at same time.
Oh, OK, and you need to charge the starter battery because you are running the HAM?
Old Apr 1, 2017 | 01:10 PM
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Don't they make an isolator for just that purpose?

Here is the run/crank part including signals and power.

Name:  run.PNG
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Old Apr 1, 2017 | 02:59 PM
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Originally Posted by donbrew
Don't they make an isolator for just that purpose?

Here is the run/crank part including signals and power.

Attachment 21257
The isolators are voltage controlled relays. They disconnect the house batteries from the starter battery when the house batteries drop below a predetermined voltage to keep the house from draining the starter battery (have one installed). But allow the alternator to charge the house batteries.
With the addition of solar, I have two charging sources. Not good to wire them in parallel. and used at same time on all batteries.

But thanks for the diagram! Will pour into it and see what I see. I'm just trying NOT to drill a hole in the firewall. They never seem to come out on the other side where you expect/want.
Old Apr 1, 2017 | 04:40 PM
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