Gas leak toward back tire
#11
Well got it fixed went with fuel injection hose had good metal on both ends and flared them and double clamp then ,also had to replace the evap line the same way ... they are crazy for what they want for the metal lines from the dealer at least no leaks and no more rot to worry about ,so check your lines guys for rot ...I got 180,000 looking to push it over to the 200,000 club
#12
You're the second or third "rust belt" member with this problem lately hurst, so it's a good idea for those in northern climes to check their fuel lines.
It looks like there's a built in "slush trap" where the lines rot out.
It looks like there's a built in "slush trap" where the lines rot out.
#13
Well i got my wheel bearing fixed , know i ran the car by my buddy's shop to put it on a lift to get a better look ... Well it seems the line from the middle of doors need to be replaced all the way to the tank because of rot ... So if i have to replace the whole or part of the line is there any kits to do so or is this a stealership item only ? What should i do ? thanks
I remember doing a fuel line job like when I was 18 on my 20 year old honda accord...I bought all universal lines, took off the old ones, and bent them (with the correct tool, not by hand) to match the original lines...It was a fairly easy job with a lift...
#14
Well the lines are 3/8 and very hard to bend the way you want ...Any way being in the rust belt do not help either ...So rubber fuel injection is the way to go for me ...Because the leak was in the frame were it bends to go up to the fuel pump it is were everything collects there ..maybe drill a hole for a drain might help but watch your gas line ...LOL
#15
Same problem!
It's Saturday and my fuel line is leaking as fast as can be behind the rear wheel on the drivers side. I got it jacked up, jack stands in place, fire ext in hand, cleaned off the rust and junk and freed the 4 lines from the black plastic clip. Here are photos. I "thought" I could free the lines, use a plumbers pipe cutter to cut out the bad section, install some hose and hose clamps and be on my way an hour ago.
I didn't know (Hell I STILL don't know) why there are two lines that look like fuel lines. I know which ones are the brake lines….
Anyway…HELP!
THANK YOU ANYONE WHO HAS THE KNOWE-HOW TO ASSIST ME!
People who are just going to guess and might get my wife blown up…please refrain.
I didn't know (Hell I STILL don't know) why there are two lines that look like fuel lines. I know which ones are the brake lines….
Anyway…HELP!
THANK YOU ANYONE WHO HAS THE KNOWE-HOW TO ASSIST ME!
People who are just going to guess and might get my wife blown up…please refrain.
#17
OK Don, thank you for identifying the other line and the good advise concerning gasoline. I pulled back the protective cover/heat shielding since it was soaked and hiding issues and used a small amount of scotch abrasive to break off the large surface scale. That was the result you see in the photos. Since it is getting late I knew I had to take it off the jacks for the evening. I needed to start the car to move it back about 4 feet. I now have a strong stream of gas peeing directly onto my exhaust pipe. It's quite amazing to see.
So everybody, I am broke so I can't use the services of a professional mechanic. I do have some skills with a wrench but this is a new one on me. Anybody want to take a step by step procedure that could end up fixing the problem? It would be appreciated!
So everybody, I am broke so I can't use the services of a professional mechanic. I do have some skills with a wrench but this is a new one on me. Anybody want to take a step by step procedure that could end up fixing the problem? It would be appreciated!
#18
A piece of fuel line rated tubing and a couple of hose clamps should work. The fact that it is "peeing" while running means that it is the pressure line from the pump.
Gasoline is bad for some rubber compounds, so be sure to get one that says "gasoline". The other 2 things are addressed in the body of this thread. Flare fittings or compression joints. Take your pick, none are safer than the next. The "safe" answer is to replace the entire line, for liability reasons that is the advice given.
Gasoline is bad for some rubber compounds, so be sure to get one that says "gasoline". The other 2 things are addressed in the body of this thread. Flare fittings or compression joints. Take your pick, none are safer than the next. The "safe" answer is to replace the entire line, for liability reasons that is the advice given.
#19
As donbrew said, the safe thing is to replace the entire line. If you try to just patch the bad section, it probably won't be long till it leaks somewhere else.
From looking at your pictures, you have some serious corrosion issues going on under there( guess it's one of those northern winter/salt things ?)
I would be taking a close look at other things like brake lines, etc.
From looking at your pictures, you have some serious corrosion issues going on under there( guess it's one of those northern winter/salt things ?)
I would be taking a close look at other things like brake lines, etc.