They did 30 minutes work, billed 3 hours. Must have taken a long coffe break.

 

I bought a 2009 HHR about a year ago. Yesterday I started having problems with the gauges flickering, the car started jerking, running rough like it was going to die. I could not get it to go over 20 mph. The engine light was on and the theft deterrent light was on also. My son and I checked the fuses and other connections. Doing this made the engine light go off. The other problems continued. I asked my son to look up how to turn off the theft deterrent light. He found an article that said to, "lock the car without using the key fob and then unlock the car using the key." I did that and all of those previous mentioned problems went away. The car drives fine.

 

2009 has different parameters for arming the alarm system. Locking doors electrically will arm 2006-2008. 2009-2011 must use the fob to arm.

If, on the other hand, you mean that you locked with the plunger, then that would have done nothing, and your problems are likely to return .

 

Lol, I was sooo nervous driving that car. So why did all that stuff happen? Did someone maybe try to open the car while it was locked?

 

You should have your battery load tested, post the results here. These computers need more than 12 volts to operate properly.

 

Have the oil pressure sending switch (at the engine block) checked. There may be oil that leaked into the electric plug connectors, and then traveled all the way up the wiring harness into the engine compartment's electronics.
That's what happened to my HHR and also to another one, here.

 

Last night it rained long and hard. This morning when I started my car all of the craziness had returned. I couldn't even get the thief deterrent symbol to go off. But I drove the car anyway. I was wondering does the weather have anything to do with the car problems that I am having? I noticed that as the car warmed up the needles stabilized. However, the car jerks when I put it in drive, when I come to a complete stop and when I'm approaching 20 and 40 mph. Driving above 40 mph it's fine.

Later this afternoon I called my mobile mechanic who came and looked at the car. Because I wanted my son's car to be fixed first I asked him to hold off on fixing my car. My mechanic told me that I probably needed a new battery and he also said that if I am experiencing problems with the transmission getting a new battery may or may not help the transmission problems.

After fixing my son's car I expressed my concern about me not being to remove the old battery and put a new one in. I was under the impression that the battery was under the hood, under the fuse thingy. I knew that I didn't have tools to remove the fuse thingy because I tried earlier. To my surprise my mechanic showed me where the battery was located. He also showed me that the battery was from 2011. I will have the battery checked out before I just buy another one....maybe.
Has anyone experiencing the same problems as I am had to go as far as servicing their transmission?

 

Short answer re servicing the transmission: no.

You say "I will have the battery checked out before I just buy another one....maybe" - maybe? RJ above advised getting the battery load tested - your mechanic suggested you probably need a new battery.
I don't know what else we can help you with. Go get the battery tested - and if you can limp the car into a auto parts store, they will test it for free, as well as do a free check of the charging system.

 

You can get a digital copy of your Owner Manual via the link in my sig. You obviously need one.

I can almost guarantee a battery will solve the trans problem. Have them check the charging system after you get the new battery. Most auto parts stores will install and check for free.

 

Ok, I will ask my mechanic to check the oil pressure sending switch. Thank you.