Didn't I explain anything? Look at #17 before you throw parts at your car. But, you might get lucky and I'm just wrong.

The codes are not saying parts are bad they are saying that the voltage is wrong. It may be possible that multiple components broke at the same time, but isn't it more likely that a wire common to them has failed?

 

Sorry you did, and I was going to check wiring but in your description I didnt see it include the P0013/P0014 (unless that is what the VVT valves are) so i took it as a separate issue but if it's not then I will spend the day checking wiring as wife said CEL came on today when she went to get groceries.

Sorry for sounding like a novice, when it comes to cars.............. older cars I'm not. But all these sensors and acronyms are new to me.

 

Yes that is VVT valves. And they indicate an open or short in the circuit. I thought you said you diagnosed it by reading here.

It is possible that the MAP sensor and/or the VVT valves are causing the problem code, but it makes more sense that a wire is.

The way that faults are detected is the computer looks for voltage or resistance that isn't right, that can mean a bad part, but if multiple parts send faults it is likely something else.

https://www.yourmechanic.com/article...by-jay-safford

 

yeah there are a large amount of threads that simply say P0013 - valve issue, part # blah blah blah.

Thank you for the additional input, I will look for wiring/grounding issues before I do anything else.

 

So I'm looking at wiring and grounds but dont see anything that looks damaged or loose, I looked at the driver strut but noticed there isnt a ground there. there is one however before the strut, took a photo and it looks to be tight and i followed the wires and there are no frays. There was one piece that looked questionable but it was just the tape that connects the two wire protectors coming undone, and one piece that seemed to be stuck to the valve cover but once pulled off there was no issues.... should/could I sprat the MAP sensor and throttle body off while I have the intake stuff removed? Also the felt hose thingy came unraveled I was curious if i could just clamp it back on after removing the piece that was staples to the plastic elbow? I'll be checking fuses as well just in case.

Here are pics in case you see something I dont.

 

And just checked fueses/relays under the hood, a lot of them while not totally off, they were definitely not seated correctly, i would say about 8 of them were fully seated while all the rest used a little push or two to get fully seated.

 

Try snugging the bolts that hold the fuse box together up.

??Here are most of the grounds. https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-...04/#post810394

 

The "strut tower groud" is #5 in this drawing.

 

And if the CEL has come on again since the initial reading, make sure you download/read the latest generated codes to verify what you are looking for.

 

Thanks for the input, I will do that tomorrow, since the filter is wet the car will sit till tomorrow. I will snug down the fuse box bolts.

Also to your comment, That is the ground i found(pic #1 i posted, albeit a sideways shot) and it was very snug with 0 wiggle at the eyelet. should I take it off, sand the area to bare metal retighten then repaint it or just check tightness with a wrench?