Hello - new to the forum; need some help if anyone has come across a similar problem.
2010 HHR LT with 2.4L Ecotec and 140K miles.
Pulled out into traffic and it stalled. Tried to start it and it will crank and start up, then in a second or two just stop (stall).
Got it towed home and thought it might be the fuel pump. Checked for DTC's and NONE are present.
Checked fuel pressure:
Key on: 56 psi.
Run (for 1 to 2 seconds before stalling): 60 psi.
60 seconds after stall: 50 psi.
2 minutes after stall: 48 psi.
I removed the air box & MAF sensor and cleaned the throttle body & blade and gave it a spray of starting fluid. It started and ran for maybe five seconds until the starting fluid was used up by the engine, then stalled again. Fuel pressure didn't change, 60 psi right after stalling. Set code P0102 MAF circuit low, since I had disconnected it.
All fuses and relays are good, battery is fully charged, Took the cover off the steering column to check the ignition switch connectors and they're seated.
Is it possible it's still the fuel pump? Will a bad crankshaft position sensor produce these symptoms?
Any clue from anyone? I don't want to start throwing parts at it without an idea of what it might be. Thank you!

 

Welcome to the site, I’m thinking worn loose timing chain, could be broken front guide. That should set a code but not always. Remove valve cover and have a look.

This was enough to give me that similar stalling problem

 

If it's a loose timing chain problem, does it make sense that it will run for as long as it has starting fluid sprayed into the throttle body?
I will pull the valve cover just to make sure...thanks!

 

Why do you ask about the crankshaft sensor? But no.
Has the recall been done on the ignition switch? Link in my sig to check.
Check for loose connections under the hood. Especially at the fuse box; the front connector should have 2 wire the rear one should have 1 wire, the front come from the battery and has been known to loosen.
Check for frayed wires under the hood; especially at the EVAP purge valve bracket.
Is this with a new/different key?

 

I recall reading that the crankshaft sensor could cause similar issues, but I agree that doesn't seem to fit this problem.
Yes, ignition switch recall was done 6 - 7 years ago.
I've looked around for loose connections / frayed wires but will look at the specific ones you mentioned.
Same key; I have a second key and it does the same thing with it also.

 

Also try tightening the 4 , 7 mm bolts in the under hood fuse box.

 

Bad gas ?

 

Could be very plausible