HHR Rack & Pinion Replacement
HHR Rack & Pinion Replacement
I'm trying to replace the R&P on my '06 HHR. I have loosened the coupling at the pinion input shaft & shaft extending through the firewall. The bolts securing the R&P to the frame have been removed. I can't slide the unit free because it has to move along the axis of the input shaft & the frame won't permit that. My next thought is to disassemble the u-joint inside the car that connects the column shaft to the stub shaft that extends through the firewall and is coupled to the pinion. That would give me more degrees of freedom to move the R&P. Any thoughts guys?
Thanks,
Jeff
Thanks,
Jeff
Here we go, per GM...
Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
Turn the steering wheel to the straight ahead position and remove the key from the ignition.
Turn the wheel counterclockwise in order to lock the steering column in place.
Raise and support the vehicle.
Remove the front wheels.
WARNING
Do not rotate the intermediate shaft once separated from the gear. Possible damage or a malfunction could occur.


Remove the steering gear to intermediate shaft pinch bolt and discard.
Disconnect the intermediate shaft from the steering gear.
Remove both steering gear outer tie rod to knuckle nuts and discard the nuts.
WARNING
Do not attempt to separate the joint using a wedge type tool.
Separate the outer tie rods from the steering knuckles.
Remove the steering gear bolts.
Remove the rear transaxle mount.
Carefully remove the steering gear from the frame and the vehicle through the LH wheel opening.
Installation...
Install the steering gear to the frame through the LH wheel opening.
Install the steering gear bolts. Tighten the bolts to 81 ft. lbs. (110 Nm).
Install the rear transaxle mount. Tighten the rear transaxle mount to frame bolts. Tighten the bolts to 44 ft. lbs. (60 Nm).
Tighten the rear transaxle mount thru bolt. Tighten the thru bolt to 74 ft. lbs. (100 Nm).
Connect the intermediate shaft to the steering gear.
Install a new intermediate shaft pinch bolt. Tighten the bolts to 25 ft. lbs. (34 Nm).
Install the outer tie rods to the steering knuckles.
Install new outer tie rod nuts. Tighten the bolts to 44 ft. lbs. (60 Nm).
Install the front wheels.
Lower the vehicle.
Adjust the toe if necessary.
I have heard from some folks who've done the job on Cobalts, that loosening the rear subframe to chassis bolts and dropping the subframe down a bit can buy you some needed clearance. It was a fairly standard trick on post 1995 GM J-body cars, but you need to be careful, and getting the subframe back up into position could be an absolute bear.
Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
Turn the steering wheel to the straight ahead position and remove the key from the ignition.
Turn the wheel counterclockwise in order to lock the steering column in place.
Raise and support the vehicle.
Remove the front wheels.
WARNING
Do not rotate the intermediate shaft once separated from the gear. Possible damage or a malfunction could occur.


Remove the steering gear to intermediate shaft pinch bolt and discard.
Disconnect the intermediate shaft from the steering gear.
Remove both steering gear outer tie rod to knuckle nuts and discard the nuts.
WARNING
Do not attempt to separate the joint using a wedge type tool.
Separate the outer tie rods from the steering knuckles.
Remove the steering gear bolts.
Remove the rear transaxle mount.
Carefully remove the steering gear from the frame and the vehicle through the LH wheel opening.
Installation...
Install the steering gear to the frame through the LH wheel opening.
Install the steering gear bolts. Tighten the bolts to 81 ft. lbs. (110 Nm).
Install the rear transaxle mount. Tighten the rear transaxle mount to frame bolts. Tighten the bolts to 44 ft. lbs. (60 Nm).
Tighten the rear transaxle mount thru bolt. Tighten the thru bolt to 74 ft. lbs. (100 Nm).
Connect the intermediate shaft to the steering gear.
Install a new intermediate shaft pinch bolt. Tighten the bolts to 25 ft. lbs. (34 Nm).
Install the outer tie rods to the steering knuckles.
Install new outer tie rod nuts. Tighten the bolts to 44 ft. lbs. (60 Nm).
Install the front wheels.
Lower the vehicle.
Adjust the toe if necessary.
I have heard from some folks who've done the job on Cobalts, that loosening the rear subframe to chassis bolts and dropping the subframe down a bit can buy you some needed clearance. It was a fairly standard trick on post 1995 GM J-body cars, but you need to be careful, and getting the subframe back up into position could be an absolute bear.
Once again, DO NOT turn the steering wheel after the column has been disconnected. The clock spring can be damaged.
I had a Toyota in the body shop waiting for a new steering gear, the guy let his kid play "race car driver" spinning the steering wheel. Got the truck back with airbag lights, cost them a bundle and I was hugely inconvienienced.
I had a Toyota in the body shop waiting for a new steering gear, the guy let his kid play "race car driver" spinning the steering wheel. Got the truck back with airbag lights, cost them a bundle and I was hugely inconvienienced.
Don is right. When I remove steering gear on a vehicle an air bag I run the seat belt threw the steering wheel and buckle it. It allows me to turn the wheel a bit when installing the shaft without letting the wheel rotate too far.
Make sure the wheels are straight before you take it apart and make sure the new rack is in the straight position before hooking up the shaft to the rack.
Make sure the wheels are straight before you take it apart and make sure the new rack is in the straight position before hooking up the shaft to the rack.
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