Check this link out for the solder repair. It's pretty easy to do.
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/show...ht=cold+solder

And here is a link to a process to replace the individual contacts inside the FOB, as well as other ways to renew the contacts - https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-tutorial-library-21/repair-key-fob-remotes-worn-out-contacts-30813/

Best of luck.

 

Thought I would just check back into this thread. I just installed 2 of these and they are great. Even on the remote that was working ok, you don't have to mash the buttons down to get them to work. I'm a happy camper.

 

so thats whats happening to my key fob? cause i hafta slap it against my leg or hand to get it to lock and unlock my doors....its getting old!!!

 

FOB PROBLEM SOLVED: After doing all the above it still did not work although the horn button still did. I tried everything and knew it was problem with the rubber button as I believe it is the air pressure that activate the circuit. I held my finder over the spot where you put a coin to open it. After a little experimenting it seemed this solved the problem. Open the fob and clean all surfaces where the rubber contacts. I then sealed that hole and the top seam of the two halves. Works perfectly now. Use a contact type clue that even after dry remain flexible. Hope it works for you.

 

No air pressure involved. Those small black dots on the back of the rubber pad are carbon when they contact the gold "Chinese writing" on the circuit board a circuit is completed.

I believe that you cleaned the contacts, that is what fixed the fob.

 

Ad Donbrew says, "air pressure" has nothing to do with it. Absolutely nothing.

And now that you have used a "contact" type glue you likely can never pull it apart for a subsequent cleaning or repair.

Warning to others: Do not glue your remotes shell casing together.

That is bad advice. As long as the circuit board inside is good, you can replace the rubber pad and the casing at most auto parts stores. Often just cleaning the contacts on the pad and the board will help for a while, or resoldering the battery harness if it has come loose.

Just do not glue the case together.

 

I think Railpast used the wrong word for the glue, contact cement is not flexible. Silicone glue would be. But there is no reason to seal the edges of the case; what about the huge holes that the buttons come through?

 

Okay before everybody gets carried away. The contact cement I used remain soft even when dry and I only glued the top part. I thought it was fixed but did work then quit again. I had no problem opening it.
If the circuit is completed when the small carbon disk touches the circuit board is it possible the are no longer conductive? I cleaned both the circuit board and the black disk but still the same. As I mentioned the unlock still works after a couple clicks and the alarm horn right away.

Thanks

 

One other question, coul it be an issue with the sensor in the car?

 

Check on eBay you can get a new pad and case for less than $10. Pads for less that $5.

I glued a tiny piece of tin foil from a cigarette pack on the dots.

hhr remote key pad | eBay

If pressing on the case seems to make it work, I would suggest the battery cage may need resoldering.
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/%22h...ghlight=keyfob

Hint: the site search does not like 3 letter words, use "keyfob". There are at least 50 related threads.