Hi folks!

Well, after bragging about my car, it bit me on the butt!

I got the dreaded won't start/key stuck thing this morning and had to use wife's car to go get my pain meds for my current kidney stone episode.

Anyway, I am an educated guy so I first searched here and easily found lots of info on the phenomenon.
Managed to get the little trap door off and push the button to release the key (btw, it is not really a button it is a lever. )

So, I get the key out and go to check fuses. A few were loose, but nothing major. Hooked the charger up to the jump point under the hood and hit the "voltage check battery" option. I was amazed to see it read 5.5V, since the car and all accessories have been working great all week. Anyway, I am charging it up to see if I can get it to start, in which case I will get a new (decent) battery. I don't remember the brand that is in it, but the cheap-ass dealer I bought from likely threw some crap battery in it just to sell it.

I am kicking myself because my usual routine is to replace the battery on any vehicle I buy unless it is warrantied.

I am hoping it is the "security lockout due to dead battery" thing and not the "go to the dealer and fight with them to change the shifter out" thing.

Is there anything special I will need to do when I replace the battery?

 

Make sure the hatch doesn't close while the battery is disconnected/out. Some have folded a towel and placed it over the latch. Here is a good discussion on AGM batteries. https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/comm...battery-52505/ And https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/gene...32/#post815915

 

Just let the battery charge up (if it can), and try to restart it. If it doesn't charge up to at least 12.4V, it may be a little more than reluctant to start.

 

Based on the OP stating he'll replace the battery, there is nothing special you need to do when swapping them out. Be sure that you get the correct tube vented type battery if going with a regular wet cell.
Also, make sure the new one has a full charge. Normally 12.6v or better. And as
RJ_RS_SS_350 stated, don't let the hatch close with the battery disconnected.

I would also check the charging system after the swap. Just to make sure the old battery was the problem and not the cause.

 

Personally, I would not use the jump point as a charge point!
I would remove the battery out and charge it in a well ventilated area.
If the battery is low on fluid it's not a great idea to charge it, that will kill a cell or two!
The Dorman and the AC Delco vent tubes are about the same price

More Information for ACDELCO 15247277

 

Thanks for feedback everyone!
Man this place is a great resource if you know how to use the SEARCH feature that is so cleverly hidden at the top of every page.

Update:

After charging for an hour or so, I went out to find the charger flipping between 13.3 and 14.7V, so I knew there was likely an issue with the battery.
Disconnected charger and car started right up no issues. So I left it running and grabbed my wallet and headed to O'Reilly's where I should have gone last weekend!
Got the best one they had for me and let them install it. All is fine now and we can get back to our regularly scheduled "upgrades."

FWIW, the date code on the old battery was not marked so I suspect it was quite old and had only been charged enough by the dealer for my test drive and a little beyond.
I will be checking out the electrical system completely very soon, just in case.

 

Batteries come pre-charged from the factory these days.

 

Yes they do. The guy almost seemed insulted when I asked him if he needed to hook it up to "top it off."

And they are damned expensive and aren't warrantied like they used to be either.
Real bummer I spent that much and can't even fit a Red Top in there.