Nag alarm went silent
#3
Left front door speaker is dead. Tweeter works and the schematic shows them in parallel. So it's either the interconnect, the speaker connections themselves or the speaker failed. No doubt it will be the hardest one to deal with.
Ever heard of this before? common issue? Or do I have to figure out how to get the door panel off and never get it back on right?
Ever heard of this before? common issue? Or do I have to figure out how to get the door panel off and never get it back on right?
#4
Try this thread.
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-tutorial-library-21/door-panel-removal-14040/
You'll need the tool that slides behind the clips to pop them out. The tool is well worth having so that the panel goes back on correctly.
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-tutorial-library-21/door-panel-removal-14040/
You'll need the tool that slides behind the clips to pop them out. The tool is well worth having so that the panel goes back on correctly.
#5
#6
i just had the same issue. i thought it had something to do with the water leak i had when the drivers door pillar wiring boot flooded the drivers side of the car. i was assuming that the connectors got wet and corroded. the drivers door lock started to not unlock properly. all the chimes stopped working. the left channel of the stereo quit. i spent a sunday checking the wiring, r&r door panels and dash panels, checking the lock mechanism, speakers, voltage output from the bcm, etc. turns out the lock just needed some lube. also, both front and rear left speakers quit. the speakers started to work again after handling and poking at them. thats how i know its not the head unit. i assume from brad's post that the chimes only come thru the left channel. kinda of what i figured myself. i could still faintly hear the chimes once in a while thru left tweater.
#7
Yep, pulled the speaker Saturday. Played with it on the bench with an audio signal and diagnosed it to one of the copper braids that come through the cone from the coil. Very weird wire too. Anyway, I spliced another piece of wire from the braid to the terminal connector block and it's back in place and working fine.
A couple notes: There was some green corrosion on the speaker and connections but thankfully the inside bottom of the door was very clean. (cars from the 60's-80's would have had rust holes there by now).
Also, I pulled the fasteners by hand without any tool. Not a big deal really. The diagram does leave out one very important fastener which is on the trailing edge of the door about the same height as the pull handle. This one fastener is perpendicular to all the others and is a pain until you figure out it's there. I suspect other owners, especially in the snowy salty regions will be getting corrosion issues in there too eventually.
A couple notes: There was some green corrosion on the speaker and connections but thankfully the inside bottom of the door was very clean. (cars from the 60's-80's would have had rust holes there by now).
Also, I pulled the fasteners by hand without any tool. Not a big deal really. The diagram does leave out one very important fastener which is on the trailing edge of the door about the same height as the pull handle. This one fastener is perpendicular to all the others and is a pain until you figure out it's there. I suspect other owners, especially in the snowy salty regions will be getting corrosion issues in there too eventually.
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