Need electrical help
Senior Member
Joined: 03-29-2022
Posts: 1,241
From: Davison MI
And then the new/swapped relay burns out because it turned out to be a circuit problem.
But yes, that is what a flat rate mechanic would do; much more money in swapping parts instead of doing the work they are getting paid to do, an hour of diagnostic time for 4 minutes work. Then if it turns out to not be the relay charge the customer for the parts because "electrical parts are non-returnable". Been there, done that; a Ford dealer replaced all of the emissions sensors because they were listed as "possible causes", couldn't be bothered to do testing. Stated symptoms "CEL on, heater blowing cold air, running rough"; it was a stuck open t-stat, ambient temperature 15F.
But yes, that is what a flat rate mechanic would do; much more money in swapping parts instead of doing the work they are getting paid to do, an hour of diagnostic time for 4 minutes work. Then if it turns out to not be the relay charge the customer for the parts because "electrical parts are non-returnable". Been there, done that; a Ford dealer replaced all of the emissions sensors because they were listed as "possible causes", couldn't be bothered to do testing. Stated symptoms "CEL on, heater blowing cold air, running rough"; it was a stuck open t-stat, ambient temperature 15F.
That's not me.
Administrator
Joined: 10-13-2011
Posts: 40,083
From: Welland,Ont Canada
So we are advising a DIY HHR owner how to test a relay, what does that have to do with working in a busy repair shop, or anything else.
Please offer helpful hints, for a fellow HHR owner trying to self diagnose why their beloved ride is not functioning properly.
Please offer helpful hints, for a fellow HHR owner trying to self diagnose why their beloved ride is not functioning properly.
Platinum Member
Joined: 12-06-2009
Posts: 11,721
From: Alabama
No. Sounds like Donbrew was just making a blanket statement. It didn't seem to be outrage.....just him stating some facts from his own experience.
Moderator
Joined: 01-23-2009
Posts: 26,532
From: Fredericksburg,VA
I did not aim any outrage; just stated facts about "flat rate mechanics". Flat rate diagnostics time is supposed to include actually diagnosing, not replacing parts that might fail soon because that was not the root cause. "Flat rate" is good for lazy mechanics and experienced mechanics that can perform the job quickly. For instance; flat rate to diagnose the cooling system is 0.4 hours and includes "pressure test for leaks, inspect belts, hoses and test radiator cap. Look under the car, look at the belts, open the cap; diagnosis: need a flush & fill, new t-stat, new radiator cap, new hoses; all at flat rate + OEM retail price for parts.
Flat rate to R&R the t-stat is 1.2 hours. 2 bolts, 1 busted knuckle, 10 minutes. + OEM retail for new t-stat $60/wholesale from NAPA $7).
Replacing the relay might make the system function until the driver is out the door, then vibration loosens the plug again causing an arc that burns the contacts again.
Senior Member
Joined: 04-06-2020
Posts: 1,054
From: Missouri
Investigation is required, check the wire to the starter solenoid for power when key is turned to start, tight fuses and relays aren’t hood fuses and relays.
Has the ignition switch recall been done? Check in here
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/tsb_recall/tsbs
Check ground wires and ensure they are clean and tight.
Check the wire from the fuse box under the hood to the starter, then the wire from that same terminal to the alternator.
You said the battery has 12.6 volts is it possible it also has a dead cell?
Back to the fuse box under the hood, take it apart make sure all wires and pins are firmly placed into there places, reassemble and tight those 5 7mm bolts past the click and firmly tighten them .
Check the battery terminals , they can crack and loosen up if the 10mm nuts are over tightened.
Has the ignition switch recall been done? Check in here
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/tsb_recall/tsbs
Check ground wires and ensure they are clean and tight.
Check the wire from the fuse box under the hood to the starter, then the wire from that same terminal to the alternator.
You said the battery has 12.6 volts is it possible it also has a dead cell?
Back to the fuse box under the hood, take it apart make sure all wires and pins are firmly placed into there places, reassemble and tight those 5 7mm bolts past the click and firmly tighten them .
Check the battery terminals , they can crack and loosen up if the 10mm nuts are over tightened.
Recalls (gm.com)
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